Heat a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat.

Toast the assorted chile peppers for 1-2 minutes, turning them to prevent burning.

Let them cool, then remove seeds.

In a small saucepan, combine seeded peppers with 1 cup water.

Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes.

Puree the peppers and water in a food processor.

In a large casserole, sauté the diced chuck in 4 tablespoons of beef suet over moderately high heat until lightly browned.

Transfer meat to a bowl.

Add the remaining suet, chopped onions, and minced garlic to the casserole.

Cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the onions are softened.

Stir in ground cumin and cook for 1 minute.

Return the chuck to the casserole along with the chile puree, soaked sun-dried tomatoes, cocoa powder, bay leaf, and dried oregano.

Mix well.

Add enough water to barely cover the meat.

Bring to a boil, then simmer covered, stirring occasionally, for 2 hours.

Add more water if necessary to keep the meat covered.

Season with salt to taste and simmer uncovered for another hour.

Discard the bay leaf.

Transfer the chili to a heated serving bowl and serve with sour cream, shredded mozzarella, sliced onion, assorted chile peppers, beans, and tortilla chips.