Pull firmly, but gradually, on the chile stems to release the seed pod and stems.

Shake out remaining seeds.

In a small dry skillet over medium heat toast the chiles, pressing with a spatula and turning, until aromatic and slightly softened, 10 to 15 seconds.

Put the chiles in a bowl and barely cover with hot water.

Cover the bowl and soak the chiles about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in the same skillet and cook the onion and garlic over medium-low heat until softened, about 4 minutes.

Transfer to a blender.

Taste the chile-soaking water, and if it’s not bitter, save it for the sauce.

Lift the chiles from the water and add them to the blender.

Add 3 tablespoons chile water and 2 tablespoons tap water (or 5 tablespoons water).

Purée smooth, scraping down the sides of the blender.

Scrape the paste into a fine-mesh strainer placed over a bowl.

Press with the back of a wooden spoon to release the pulp.

Stir ¼ teaspoon of the salt into the paste.

Put the remaining oil on a plate and coat the steaks, 1 at a time, on both sides with oil.

Season with salt and pepper.

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat.

Lay 2 of the steaks in the hot pan.

Spread about 1 teaspoon of chile paste on top of each steak.

Cook until the steaks are browned on the bottom, about 5 minutes.

Turn the meat and spread 1 teaspoon of chile paste on the cooked side.

Cook until the steaks are done to your taste, about 3 more minutes for medium rare.

Transfer to a plate and cover to keep warm.

Wipe pan.

Repeat with the remaining 2 steaks.

In a medium skillet, heat the oil until shimmering and fry the tortilla pieces, turning, until crisp and golden brown on both sides.

Drain on paper towels and reserve.

In the same skillet cook the onion, stirring, until softened, 3 to 4 minutes.

With tongs, remove about ¾ of the onion and reserve in a bowl.

Transfer the remaining onions to a blender, and add the tomatoes, broth, garlic, ground chili, oregano, and ½ teaspoon of the salt.

Blend as smooth as possible.

Transfer the sauce to a saucepan and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 8 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the sauce thickens and the flavors blend.

Keep warm.

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and cook the steaks 3 to 4 minutes per side or until browned on the outside and pink and juicy inside for medium rate, or adjust time for desired doneness.

Season with the remaining salt.

Transfer the meat to a warm platter.

To the skillet, add the reserved onions.

Add the jalapeño chile strips.

Cook, stirring about 2 minutes or until completely heated through.

The chile strips will still be crisp and bright green.

To serve, pour a portion of the heated sauce in the center of each of 4 plates.

Put 1 steak on the sauce and top with the onion and chile strips.

Sprinkle each serving with cilantro.

Prepare the mango salsa and the avocado butter.

Cover and reserve.

Prepare an outdoor grill, or, preheat a stovetop grill pan or oven broiler.

Season steaks with salt.

Add pepper, if desired.

Brush the steaks with vegetable oil.

When the coals are hot, or broiler or stovetop pan is hot, cook the steaks about 4 minutes per side, or until browned on the outside and pink and juicy inside for medium rare, or adjust time for desired doneness.

Put 1 steak on each of 4 plates.

Top each steak with about 1 tablespoon of avocado butter.

Spoon mango salsa on the side.

Pass extra avocado butter and salsa at the table.

Prepare the ancho chiles, then cut them into pieces and soak in hot water to soften, 15 minutes.

Meanwhile put the tomatoes and garlic cloves in a small, dry nonstick skillet and pan-roast them, turning occasionally with tongs, until the garlic is slightly soft with some brown spots, about 5 minutes.

Transfer to a blender.

Continue to cook the tomatoes another 2 to 3 minutes, or until they are charred a bit on both sides.

Add to the blender with the garlic.

Add the soaked ancho chiles, the crushed red pepper, and ½ cup of the chicken broth.

Blend until very smooth.

Reserve in the blender.

In a medium saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat.

Add the puréed mixture gently to the pan (so it won’t splatter) and cook, stirring, 1 minute.

Add the wine and the remaining chicken broth.

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until reduced and thickened, about 10 minutes.

Stir in the butter and ½ teaspoon of the salt.

Reserve off heat.

Heat the remaining oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat.

Season the steaks with salt and pepper.

Cook the steaks 3 to 4 minutes per side or until browned on the outside and pink and juicy inside, or adjust time for desired doneness.

Reheat the sauce.

Trim the tenderloin of all fat, and cut it in half crosswise.

Cut each half lengthwise into thin slices (about ⅓ inch) with the grain.

Put the meat on a platter.

In a small bowl, mix the garlic, pepper, and cumin.

Add the olive oil and work into a paste.

Spread the paste all over the meat.

Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator 3 hours or overnight.

Prepare the poblanos with onions.

About one hour before cooking the meat, prepare an outdoor grill fire.

When the coals are ready, grill the meat over a very hot fire about 2 minutes per side or until browned on the outside and pink and juicy on the inside, or to desired doneness.

Season the meat with salt and sprinkle with lime juice.

Preheat oven to 400°.

In a heavy skillet, heat oil to a depth of about ½ inch until the oil shimmers.

Fry the tortillas, 1 at a time, until crisp and light brown on both sides.

Drain on paper towels.

(The tostadas can be fried up to 2 days ahead.

Cool, then store in a cupboard in a sealed plastic bag.

)

Prepare the salsa and guacamole, if using homemade.

Then, pour off all but about 1 tablespoon of the tortilla-frying oil in the skillet, and heat until hot.

Fry the steaks about 4 minutes per side or until browned on the outside and still pink and juicy inside, for medium-rare, or adjust time for desired doneness.

Season with ½ teaspoon of the salt and a bit of pepper.

Remove to a cutting board and let stand 5 minutes.

In the same skillet, cook the onion, stirring, until limp but not soft, 4 to 5 minutes.

Season with the remaining salt.

Reserve in the pan.

Cut the steaks into bite size pieces.

Toss with the onion.

Place the crisp tortillas on a large baking sheet.

Mound the steak and onion equally in the center of each tortilla, and put ¼ of the cheese on top of each mound.

Put in preheated oven until the cheese is melted, 3 to 5 minutes.

Using a large wide spatula, transfer each tostada to the center of each of 4 large serving plates.

Surround the tostadas with a few snipped sprigs of cilantro or parsley.

Put a tiny bit of red salsa on the top of each tostada.

Serve at once, accompanied by condiment bowls of salsa and guacamole to be added at the table.

Prepare the chiles.

Then, cut out the stem and cut open the chiles to remove the seeds and ribs.

Cut the chiles into strips, then into 3⁄4-inch pieces.

Reserve.

Trim the meat of fat, and cut the meat into thin slices, then into 1-inch pieces.

Put the meat into a bowl, and toss with half of the oil, the Maggi, and garlic.

Let stand about 20 minutes.

In a large skillet, heat the remaining oil until hot.

Add half of the beef, in a single layer, and stir-fry until browned, 3 to 4 minutes.

(Don’t overcook, or the beef will be tough.

) Remove the meat to a bowl, and brown the remaining meat.

Add to the first batch of meat and set aside.

In the same skillet, cook the onion over medium-low heat until it begins to brown, about 5 minutes.

Add the tomatoes, chiles, thyme, and 2 tablespoons of water.

Raise heat to medium and cook, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes soften 4 to 5 minutes.

Add the meat and the juices from the bowl.

Season with salt and pepper.

When the meat is heated through, stir in the cilantro and serve.

Prepare the salsa.

Then, in a heavy skillet, heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat.

Cook the meat, in batches, until lightly browned and still pink inside, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper.

Remove to a plate.

Add the onion, garlic, oregano, and allspice to the same pan.

Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion starts to brown, about 5 minutes.

Add the broth, Worcestershire, Maggi, and lime juice.

Bring to a boil.

Reduce heat to low, cover and cook, stirring frequently, 4 minutes.

Return the meat and any juices to the pan.

Bring to a simmer, uncovered, and cook until completely heated through, about 2 minutes.

Divide between 2 serving plates.

Arrange the green salsa, avocado, and cheese around the meat.

Prepare the salsa.

Reserve in the bowl.

Prepare a barbecue fire or preheat the broiler.

Put the steaks in a pie plate or shallow bowl.

In a medium bowl, mix the achiote paste, chili powder, and lime juice.

Stir in the onion and cilantro.

Pour the mixture over the steaks, and turn to coat.

Marinate the meat 20 minutes.

Remove from the marinade, discarding the marinade, and brush the steaks on both sides with oil.

Season with salt and pepper.

Grill the steaks over hot coals or under a hot broiler, 3 to 4 minutes per side until browned on the outside and still pink and juicy inside, for medium-rare, or adjust time for desired doneness.

Let the meat stand 5 minutes.

Serve with the salsa.

Put the tomatoes and chipotle chiles in a blender and blend to a coarse purée.

Reserve in the blender.

Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat and cook the onions, stirring, until beginning to brown, about 4 to 5 minutes.

Transfer the onions to a bowl.

Cook the steaks in the same hot skillet about 4 to 5 minutes per side or until well seared on the outside but still pink and juicy inside, for medium rare.

Season with salt.

Put the steaks on a platter.

Add the reserved tomato-chipotle sauce to the same hot skillet, and cook, scraping up the browned bits from the pan, 2 minutes.

Stir in reserved onions and cook 2 minutes Pile the onion mixture on the steaks and serve at once.