Recipes

Dark chicken stock

Dark chicken stock

There’s something about making stock that makes me feel very grown-up and competent. This intensely flavoured, delicious dark chicken stock takes that feeling to the next level, and the recipe also rewards you with cooked chicken that you can use for sandwiches, spring rolls, salads, soups and so on. I learned this method of making stock from two great cooks and food writers: my friend Anya Fernald and David Tanis (via his wonderful book, A Platter of Figs). I’m grateful to them for showing me how roasting the stock ingredients first creates the most wonderful flavour base for all kinds of soups, sauces and braises.
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Ingredients

  • 1 large free-range chicken
  • 2 brown onions quartered
  • 3 carrots cut into chunks
  • 2 celery stalks cut into chunks
  • Olive oil for drizzling
  • 1 handful rosemary and thyme sprigs a mix is nice, but use whatever you have in the garden or fridge
  • 1 bay leaf
  • ¼ cup 60 ml boiling water
  • ¼ cup 60 g tomato paste (concentrated purée)

Instructions

  • Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F).
  • Cut the chicken in half right down the middle and lay it flat in a roasting tin.
  • Surround the chicken with the onion, carrot and celery.
  • Drizzle everything with olive oil and season with salt and pepper, then pop it into the oven for 20 minutes or until the chicken and aromatics have browned nicely.
  • Transfer everything from the tin into a large stockpot or saucepan and pour in 14 cups (3.
  • 5 litres) water.
  • Add the herbs and bay leaf and bring to the boil, skimming any foam or scum that rises to the surface.
  • Reduce the heat to a low simmer and cook for 1 ½ hours.
  • Meanwhile, deglaze the roasting tin by placing it on the stove over medium heat (or scrape everything you can from the base of the tin into a saucepan) and adding the boiling water, scraping and stirring so you get all the colour and flavour from the bottom of the tin.
  • Stir in the tomato paste, then pour the mixture into the stock.
  • Strain the stock and refrigerate or freeze it.
  • Discard the vegetables.
  • Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, shred the meat and store it in an airtight container in the fridge.
  • (Purists might argue that the chicken will be a touch overcooked, but actually I find it super tasty.)

Notes & Wine Advice

To make a reduction jus, pour 2 cups (500 ml) of this rich, unctuous stock into a saucepan and cook it over medium heat until it reduces by half. This is beautiful as a gravy for roast chicken or even to use when making a gravy for roast lamb.
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Course; Chicken / Stock

Chocolate salami

Chocolate salami

This chocolate, hazelnut and nougat roll ticks every box for me when it comes to dessert – it’s done well in advance and it’s a hand-around situation, which means so much less fuss and washing up. I like to serve it with some fresh fruit and jellies.
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Ingredients

  • 11/3 cups 200 g roughly chopped dark chocolate
  • ½ cup 125 g butter, softened
  • ¼ cup 50 g caster (superfine) sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 100 g 3½ oz amaretti biscuits, roughly chopped
  • 150 g 5½ oz hard nougat, roughly chopped
  • 150 g 5½ oz hazelnuts, toasted, skins removed

Instructions

  • Melt the chocolate in a heatproof glass bowl over a saucepan of simmering water.
  • Meanwhile, beat the butter and sugar with an electric mixer until pale and fluffy, about 5 minutes.
  • Add the egg and whisk on low speed until well combined.
  • Pour in the melted chocolate, whisking slowly as you go, until fully incorporated into the mixture.
  • Fold in the biscuits, nougat and hazelnuts.
  • Divide the mixture in half and place each half on a sheet of baking paper.
  • Using damp hands, form the mixture into two sausage shapes and wrap tightly in the paper, twisting the ends to seal.
  • Place in the fridge to set for at least 3 hours before slicing and serving with coffee.
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Course; Chocolate

Baked semolina gnocchi

Baked semolina gnocchi

Very forgiving, very delicious and very soothing, this semolina gnocchi is a total winner and I’d happily have it for dinner on a cold, windy night, just on its own. It’s also a fantastic side dish for all kinds of mains. Everything is done in advance and you can have it sitting in the fridge, ready to pop into the oven 40 minutes or so before it’s time to eat. We are jumping around a bit geographically with this dish – it’s a Roman classic, while the chicken and the chocolate salami are Piedmontese staples, but as with most of my cooking, it’s an amalgamation of flavours and memories. As long as the end result is tasty and proper credit is given to the recipe’s origins, that’s okay with me.
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Ingredients

  • 2 eggs lightly whisked
  • 1 cup 180 g semolina
  • 2 cups 500 ml full-cream milk
  • 1 cup 100 g grated parmesan cheese
  • ¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
  • ¼ cup 60 g butter, cut into cubes, plus extra for greasing
  • 1/3 cup 80 ml single (pure) cream

Instructions

  • Combine the eggs and semolina in a saucepan and whisk well.
  • Whisk in the milk, half the parmesan and the nutmeg.
  • Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes or until the mixture thickens to a porridge consistency and comes away from the side of the pan.
  • Remove from the heat and set aside to cool for about 5 minutes.
  • Turn the semolina mixture out onto a work surface and divide it in half.
  • Using damp hands, roll each half into a long sausage shape.
  • Wrap each log in plastic wrap and place in the fridge to chill for 30 minutes.
  • Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F).
  • Butter a shallow ovenproof dish.
  • Unwrap the semolina logs and slice them into 1 cm (½ inch) thick rounds.
  • Arrange the rounds in the buttered dish, overlapping them.
  • Dot the butter over the gnocchi, drizzle with the cream and sprinkle with the remaining grated parmesan.
  • Bake for 20 minutes or until the gnocchi has puffed up a little and the cheese on top is golden and bubbling.
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Course; Pasta

Angela’s chicken

Angela’s chicken on rustic wooden table

Angela’s chicken

Unctuous, rich and aromatic, this simple chicken dish is one of my favourite things to have for Sunday lunch, especially when served with deliciously golden and cheesy semolina gnocchi.
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Ingredients

Instructions

  • Toss the chicken pieces with the flour and season well.
  • Heat the oil and butter in a large flameproof casserole dish over high heat until bubbling.
  • Brown the chicken in batches, cooking for a few minutes on each side or until golden all over.
  • Transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside.
  • Return the pan to medium–low heat.
  • Add a little more oil, if needed, then add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic and rosemary, and season with a little salt and pepper.
  • Cook, stirring often, for 20 minutes or until the vegetables have reduced right down and have an almost jammy consistency.
  • Pour in the wine and tomatoes and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes or until the liquid has reduced by half.
  • Stir in the tomato paste.
  • Return the chicken pieces to the pan and pour in the stock.
  • Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for 45 minutes.
  • Check the liquid halfway through cooking and add a splash of water if needed.
  • Remove the pan from the heat and let the chicken rest for a few minutes before sprinkling it with the parsley.
  • Serve the chicken with a green salad, semolina gnocchi (here) and some dinner rolls.

Notes & Wine Advice

Green salad

Gather a mix of greens, such as rocket (arugula), mizuna, oak leaf lettuce, radicchio, sorrel and soft herbs, and separate the leaves from their stems. Wash the leaves, then give them a good shake in a sieve or colander. Gently roll up the leaves in a couple of clean tea towels, then pop them in the fridge until lunch or dinnertime.

Tip

the leaves into a serving bowl. Lightly sprinkle with salt, then dress with a classic vinaigrette, made by mixing one part vinegar with three parts extra virgin olive oil. Finish with some toasted flaked almonds and thinly sliced crisp pear. Toss and serve.
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Course; Chicken

Mushrooms with garlic and thyme on toast

Mushrooms with garlic and thyme on toast

Once I’m home from a forest adventure and am wearing my soft clothes after a hot shower, I’m ready for an easy supper. A bowl of these mushrooms on my lap, a movie on the television and the promise of an early night is my idea of Sunday night heaven.
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Ingredients

  • 400 –500 g about 1 lb saffron milk cap or pine mushrooms (see Note)
  • 2½ Tbsp 50 g butter, plus extra to serve
  • 3 garlic cloves finely chopped
  • 2 Tbsp thyme leaves
  • ¼ cup 60 ml single (pure) cream
  • Sourdough bread to serve

Instructions

  • Clean, trim and slice the mushrooms.
  • Heat the butter in a large heavy-based frying pan over high heat until bubbling.
  • Add the mushrooms, garlic and thyme.
  • Cook, stirring, for a few minutes until the mushrooms collapse and soften.
  • Add the cream and season well with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
  • Cook, stirring, for 1 minute, then remove the pan from the heat.
  • Slice, toast and butter some lovely crusty sourdough bread.
  • Plonk a plate of buttered toast and the pan of mushrooms on the table and dig in.

Notes & Wine Advice

Use Swiss brown mushrooms or another favourite mushroom if you don’t have access to saffron milk caps.
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Course; Side Dish / Vegetables

Cannellini bean and pancetta soup

Cannellini bean and pancetta soup

A recipe like this is about slowly building layers: the onion in butter, then the garlic, pancetta, tomato paste, rosemary, stock and, finally, the lemon juice and parmesan. It’s a simple dish, but very versatile and packed with big, bright flavour. It’s substantial enough to have as a meal on its own, with some bread and greens, perhaps, and the plum cake from here to follow. You can make it as a soup as I’ve done here, or hold back a little on the stock and serve it as a braised bean dish. It makes a beautiful side dish for roasted or barbecued meat, or a bruschetta or focaccia topping.
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Ingredients

  • 2 cups 390 g dried cannellini beans, soaked overnight or for 4–6 hours in cold water
  • 2 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1½ Tbsp 30 g butter
  • 1 brown onion finely chopped
  • 3 fat garlic cloves finely chopped
  • 200 g 7 oz pancetta, cut into 5 mm (¼ inch) cubes
  • ¼ cup 60 g tomato paste (concentrated purée)
  • 4 cups 1 litre chicken stock, vegetable stock or water
  • 2 rosemary stalks
  • 1 lemon
  • ½ cup 50 g grated parmesan cheese

Instructions

  • Drain the cannellini beans and add them to a large saucepan of water.
  • Bring to the boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and cook for 40 minutes or until the beans are tender.
  • Drain and set aside.
  • Heat the olive oil and butter in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat and add the onion.
  • Cook, stirring often, for 5–7 minutes or until the onion is translucent.
  • Add the garlic and pancetta and cook for 10 minutes or until aromatic and the pancetta is beginning to crisp.
  • Stir in the tomato paste and cook for a few more minutes.
  • Pour in the stock or water, add the drained beans and rosemary stalks and bring to a simmer.
  • At this point, you can put the whole lot in a slow cooker for the day, but I like how leaving it on the stove on low for an hour or so reduces everything down a little and really intensifies the flavours.
  • You might need to top up the liquid if the beans get thirsty and soak up more than expected.
  • Serve the soup with a squeeze of lemon, a little grated parmesan and some crusty bread on the side.

Notes & Wine Advice

You can use 2 x 400 g (14 oz) tins of cannellini beans instead of the dried beans. They won’t need soaking or pre-cooking – simply drain and rinse them, then add them to the soup when you add the stock.
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Course; Soup

Vanilla rose chai tea

Vanilla rose chai tea

I love brewing this chai, partly because it makes the kitchen smell amazing and partly because it’s such a lovely thing to share for morning or afternoon tea, but mostly because it makes a nice change from regular coffee and tea.
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Ingredients

VANILLA ROSE SYRUP

Instructions

  • To make the vanilla rose syrup, combine the sugar, rosewater and 1 cup (250 ml) water in a saucepan.
  • Scrape the vanilla seeds into the pan and add the scraped pod.
  • Cook over medium–high heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves.
  • Set aside to cool, then strain the syrup into a jar and store in the fridge.
  • Mix the dried spices together and place them in a large dry saucepan.
  • Toast over medium heat for a few minutes or until just beginning to pop and smell lovely.
  • Pour in 8 cups (2 litres) water and bring to a simmer, then leave the mixture to bubble away for about 20 minutes or until reduced by half.
  • Remove from the heat, add the tea and ginger and steep for 5 minutes.
  • Strain the chai, discarding the spices and tea leaves, and pour it into a jug to store in the fridge.
  • To serve, heat the chai with equal parts milk and chai until steaming, then sweeten with the vanilla rose syrup, to taste.
  • If I’m making this for a thermos, I have the chai nice and hot, then I add the vanilla rose syrup, to taste.
  • I reheat the chai and add milk, to taste, then pour the whole hot concoction into a thermos.

Notes & Wine Advice

Store the syrup in the fridge for up to a couple of weeks.
The chai will keep in the fridge for a couple of weeks.
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Course; Hot drinks

Nutty chocolate biscuits

Nutty chocolate biscuits

These remind me of those famous spiced German biscuits, but with the extra bonus of some chocolate in the middle. They’re up there with my favourite biscuits to make, pack and give or take on picnics or adventures.
Couverts15
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Ingredients

  • 150 g 5½ oz natural almonds
  • 225 g 8 oz unsalted butter, softened
  • ½ cup 100 g brown sugar
  • Grated zest of 1 orange
  • 11/3 cups 150 g quick-cooking oats (or traditional oats, blitzed for a few seconds)
  • 1½ cups 225 g plain (all-purpose) flour
  • A pinch of salt
  • ¼ tsp ground cinnamon
  • ¼ tsp ground nutmeg
  • 12/3 cups 250 g chopped white, milk or dark chocolate (or a mixture)

Instructions

  • Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).
  • Spread the almonds on a baking tray and roast in the oven for about 10 minutes.
  • Leave the nuts to cool for a few minutes, then transfer to a food processor or mortar and pestle and blitz or bash into rough crumbs.
  • Line two baking trays with baking paper.
  • Beat the butter, brown sugar and orange zest in an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment until pale and fluffy.
  • Add the almonds, oats, flour, salt and spices and beat for 30 seconds or until the dough just comes together.
  • Turn the dough onto a work surface and form it into a large disc.
  • Divide the disc in half, wrap one portion and place it in the fridge.
  • Shape the other half into a disc again and roll it out between two sheets of baking paper until about 5 mm (¼ inch) thick.
  • Cut the dough into rounds using a 6 cm (2½ inch) cutter (or use a glass) and place them on the trays.
  • Bake for 15–20 minutes or until the biscuits are golden brown.
  • Transfer to a wire rack to cool, then repeat with the remaining dough.
  • Once all the biscuits are cooled, melt the chocolate in a heatproof glass bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and stir until smooth.
  • Set aside to cool for a few minutes.
  • Place a sheet of baking paper under your cooling rack to catch any drips, then spoon about ½ teaspoon chocolate onto the centre of half of the biscuits.
  • Top each with a biscuit lid and gently squash down so the chocolate spreads out to the edges.
  • Once the chocolate is completely set, store the biscuits in an airtight container for up to a week.
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Course; Chocolate / Coockies / Biscuit / Nuts

Apple and blackberry pie

Apple and blackberry pie

This pie is nothing fancy, just a simple, pure and homely thing. But that’s what makes it so lovely. The combination of apple and blackberry is a total winner – the blackberries taste extra good because they are extra painful to pick! However, feel free to use any fruit you like (poached quinces would be amazing). I used rye flour because I order it in bulk and always have lots to get through, but I actually find it adds depth, colour and interest to the dough. You can use plain (all-purpose) or other flour if you prefer. And finally, you’ll want to serve this with some gloopy, dollopy cream. Happy baking!
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Ingredients

PASTRY

  • 12/3 cups 200 g rye flour, plus extra for dusting
  • 1/3 cup 40 g icing (confectioners’) sugar
  • 150 g 5½ oz chilled butter, cut into cubes
  • 3 tsp iced water
  • 1 egg whisked

FILLING

  • 4 large apples
  • ½ cup 110 g white (granulated) sugar
  • ¼ tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1 cup 130 g blackberrie

Instructions

  • To make the pastry, whisk the flour and sugar together in a bowl.
  • Tip the mixture out onto a work surface and make a well in the centre.
  • Add the butter and use the heels of your hands to bring everything together, adding a little of the iced water as you go.
  • Keep smooshing it all together until you have a rough dough, with some pea-sized bits of butter throughout.
  • Shape the dough into a disc, then wrap and chill it in the fridge for about 30 minutes.
  • For the filling, peel, core and slice the apples.
  • Place the apple in a saucepan with most of the sugar, the cinnamon and a splash of water.
  • Cook over medium heat, stirring often, for about 10 minutes or until the apple has softened.
  • Remove from the heat and set aside.
  • (If time allows, chill the apple.)

Notes & Wine Advice

the apple into a 6 cup (1.5 litre) pie dish and sprinkle the blackberries over the top.
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Course; Fruit / Pie

Warm duck breast and fig salad with cauliflower cream

Warm duck breast and fig salad with cauliflower cream

This dish is a bit fancy. It definitely looks and tastes special, and with the figs and duck as key ingredients, it’s probably the most extravagant meal in the book. But it’s worth it for a special lunch for a special two or few.
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Ingredients

  • 2 duck breasts
  • 2 Tbsp soy sauce
  • 2 Tbsp rice wine vinegar or white wine vinegar
  • 2 Tbsp five-spice powder here or store bought
  • 1 tsp honey
  • ½ cup 125 ml white wine
  • 4 figs halved
  • 2 handfuls rocket arugula
  • ½ cup 70 g pomegranate seeds
  • ½ cup 60 g walnuts, toasted and roughly chopped
  • Crusty bread or focaccia to serve

CAULIFLOWER CREAM

  • 1½ Tbsp 30 g butter
  • 1 leek white part only, diced
  • ½ head cauliflower broken into small florets
  • 1 cup 250 ml chicken stock or water

Instructions

  • Score the top (fatty) side of the duck breasts in a crisscross pattern and place in a bowl.
  • Combine the soy sauce, vinegar, five-spice and honey in a small jug, then pour the marinade over the duck breasts, rubbing it into the scored meat.
  • Cover and marinate overnight or for at least a couple of hours in the fridge.
  • Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F).
  • Place an ovenproof frying pan over medium heat, then sear the marinated duck breasts for about 2 minutes, fatty side down, until golden and crispy.
  • Pour the wine into the pan around the duck breasts (but not over the top of them).
  • Transfer to the oven for 15 minutes.
  • Add the figs, cut side down, and bake for another 15 minutes or until the duck breasts are cooked but still pink and tender inside.
  • While the duck is cooking, make the cauliflower cream.
  • Melt the butter in a large saucepan.
  • Cook the leek for a few minutes or until soft and translucent.
  • Add the cauliflower and cook for a few minutes before adding the stock.
  • Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 15 minutes or until the cauliflower is completely tender.
  • Transfer to a blender, reserving some of the cooking liquid, and blitz until you have a smooth purée, adding a little liquid if needed.
  • Smear the cauliflower cream over the base of a pretty serving platter.
  • Remove the duck breasts and figs from the oven and let the duck rest under a tent of foil for 10 minutes or so.
  • Return the pan with the cooking juices and figs to the stove and cook over high heat for a few minutes to reduce the juices a little.
  • (You could add a splash more wine if there’s not enough liquid to make a sauce.)
  • Slice the duck against the grain and arrange it on the cauliflower cream.
  • Add the figs and scatter the rocket, pomegranate seeds and walnuts over the top.
  • Serve with some crusty bread or focaccia.

Notes & Wine Advice

VARIATION:

If figs have come and gone for the season, try using a little thinly sliced pear, some plums, blackberries or even raspberries instead.
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Course; Duck