Lamb Tartare

Lamb Tartare

Though some may find leg of lamb to be too chewy, I like it for a tartare because it has so much flavor. Because it’s sliced so thinly, even the highly sensitive can appreciate the taste without being turned off by the texture. I love lamb with anchovies, but my absolute favorite way to serve it is with oysters—or both, if you’re willing to be adventurous. Feel free to leave them out (or use a rack of lamb and no egg yolk if you really want to play it safe). This dish is super easy to make, just be sure to thoroughly chill the meat or it will be difficult to slice. Serve the tartare with grilled bread or raw endive spears broken apart into cups, or, my personal favorite, crisp salty potato chips.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 as a starter

Instructions

  • Trim off and discard any silvery white fat from the lamb.
  • Slice it thinly into ¼-inch strips, then stack the strips on top of each other and cut vertically into ¼-inch strips again.
  • Turn the slices 90 degrees and cut vertically into ¼-inch cubes.
  • Place the cubes in a bowl, cover, and chill in your refrigerator until just before you’re ready to serve.
  • In a fine-mesh strainer, rinse the anchovies and capers in cold water, then soak them covered with cold water in a small bowl for 10 minutes to remove their salt.
  • Drain and coarsely chop.
  • In a large bowl, combine the mustard, egg yolk, olive oil, and anchovies and whisk until incorporated.
  • Just before serving, stir the capers, mint, lemon zest, and shallot into the lamb.
  • Add a pinch of pepper and mix gently to combine, fluffing the lamb with a fork to break apart the pieces.
  • Fold in the egg yolk mixture and season with flaky sea salt to taste.
  • Serve immediately.
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Course; Lamb

Duck Breast with Braised Red Cabbage & Dried Figs

Duck Breast with Braised Red Cabbage & Dried Figs

I encourage you to make this recipe your own. Don’t be limited by the ingredients listed here: other dried fruits would work well in place of the figs: apricots, pears, or even something wild like pineapple. If you don’t like duck breast, this cabbage is also tasty alongside any meat—especially pork. If you do like duck breast but you’re scared to cook it, my advice is simple: don’t be. This method is easy and takes less than 20 minutes.
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Ingredients

Serves 6

Braised Red Cabbage

Duck

Instructions

  • It helps to know: This cabbage marinates overnight.
  • To make the cabbage, in a large bowl, stir together the red wine, port wine, vinegar, ginger, figs, and a pinch each of sugar and salt.
  • Add the cabbage and toss until well coated.
  • Cover and let marinate in your refrigerator overnight.
  • When ready to serve, preheat your oven to 325°F.
  • Remove the duck from your refrigerator and let it come to room temperature before cooking.
  • Warm the olive oil in a large ovenproof pan on medium heat.
  • Add the onions and cook until they’ve softened and just begun to turn golden, about 12 minutes.
  • Stir in the cabbage mixture along with its marinade.
  • Cover and bake for 45 minutes.
  • Remove the cover, stir, and bake for another 45 minutes, uncovered.
  • The cabbage will be quite tender and soft, with almost the consistency of a spread.
  • Meanwhile, about 30 minutes before serving, trim off any fat that surrounds the perimeter of the duck breasts.
  • Starting at one corner, with the skin side facing up, use a sharp knife to cut diagonal lines in the duck’s skin about ¼ inch apart.
  • Repeat, starting at the opposite corner to make a diamond pattern.
  • This allows the fat that’s just beneath the skin to escape as you cook.
  • In a medium pan on low heat, add enough neutral oil to cover the bottom in a thin film.
  • Once the oil begins to shimmer (but before it gets very hot), set the duck breasts in the pan skin-side down.
  • You should hear the soft sound of the skin crisping—if it’s loud, your pan is likely too hot.
  • Let the meat sit without nudging until the skin is dark brown and crispy, about 8 minutes.
  • Sprinkle the flesh side liberally with salt and pepper.
  • Turn the breasts over and allow to gently sizzle for 1 minute.
  • Transfer to your cutting board to rest, uncovered, for 5 minutes.
  • Cut the duck into ½-inch-wide slices.
  • Transfer the cabbage to a serving bowl and remove the ginger.
  • Add some roast shallots, top with the sliced duck, and serve.
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Course; Duck

Pork Tenderloins with Coriander & Fennel

Pork Tenderloins with Coriander & Fennel

Cabbage is delicious, nutritious, cheap, and highly underrated. You can shred it and add some vinegar and mayonnaise for a refreshing coleslaw, or caramelize it in butter for a savory side to a well-cooked roast meat, as I’ve done here. And speaking of well-cooked meat, here’s a small caveat: be careful not to overcook the pork. A dry, overcooked tenderloin is a sad prospect. A juicy tenderloin, cooked to a medium temperature, as instructed in this recipe, is just right.
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Ingredients

Instructions

  • In a small pan on low heat, lightly toast the fennel and coriander, tossing constantly, until they take on some color and become fragrant, about 3 minutes.
  • Transfer to a plate to cool.
  • Crush the toasted spices and the peppercorns using a mortar and pestle, then spread them on a cutting board.
  • If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, crush them by pressing down and forward firmly with the bottom of a pot.
  • Rub the tenderloins with olive oil, then roll them in the spices to coat on all sides.
  • Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in your refrigerator for at least 1 hour, or better yet, overnight.
  • Preheat your oven to 350°F.
  • Remove the tenderloins from your refrigerator and let them come to room temperature before roasting.
  • Remove the outer leaves of the cabbage and slice it in half.
  • Leaving the core intact, slice each half lengthwise into 1-inch-wide planks.
  • Set aside.
  • Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large ovenproof pan on medium heat.
  • Sprinkle the tenderloins with a couple generous pinches of salt.
  • Sear, turning until they’ve browned on all sides, about 5 minutes total.
  • Transfer to your oven and roast until the pork is cooked to medium (about 145°F), 9 to 11 minutes.
  • Set aside on a plate, covered with aluminum foil, to rest for 20 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium pan on medium heat.
  • Once melted, turn the heat to low and add the cabbage in one layer.
  • Add the thyme, garlic, and a pinch of salt.
  • Cover and let the cabbage caramelize without nudging until the pieces are soft and nicely browned, about 20 minutes.
  • Carefully flip the cabbage onto a serving plate to expose the browned side.
  • To serve, cut the pork horizontally into ¾-inch-wide slices and arrange next to the cabbage, pouring any juices that have pooled over the top.
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Course; Pork

Trout with Fennel & Grapefruit

Trout with Fennel & Grapefruit

Fish with fennel and citrus is a classic combination. This dish (which uses only one pan!) features grapefruit, a slight variation from the lemon that’s more commonly used. My father used to eat grapefruit for breakfast every morning, and I still remember the first time he gave me a bite to taste. The shockingly bright citrus was almost as transformative as my first steamed clam. Be it nostalgia or otherwise, it’s been one of my favorite fruits ever since. I adore the trout I buy from my local seafood market, but I know it can be hard to find. Cod, salmon, sea bass, or even scallops work well as a substitute.
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Ingredients

Serves 4

Instructions

  • Peel the grapefruits using a sharp knife, then cut out the segments over a bowl to reserve the juice.
  • Set aside.
  • In a large pan on low heat, add enough olive oil to cover the bottom in a thin film.
  • Add the fennel, thyme, and a pinch of salt.
  • Cook, stirring occasionally, until the fennel softens and lightly caramelizes, about 10 minutes.
  • Turn the heat to high and add the wine to deglaze the pan.
  • Add the grapefruit juice and stir to combine.
  • Turn the heat to low.
  • Slice diagonal lines about 1 inch apart into the trout’s skin, deep enough to just pierce the skin but not the flesh.
  • This prevents the skin from shrinking as it cooks.
  • Season the fish with a pinch of salt on each side.
  • Push the fennel to the edges of the pan, add the fish skin-side down, and cover.
  • Cook for 3 minutes, then flip the trout, cover, and cook for 3 minutes more.
  • Turn off the heat to steam the fish through, about 3 minutes more.
  • Transfer to a large platter and serve immediately.
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Course; Fish

Peel & Eat Shrimp with Garlic & Parsley

Peel & Eat Shrimp with Garlic & Parsley

This dish is messy, fun to eat, and easy to make. I like to rip off the tail and eat the shrimp whole in its shell, dipped in Mother-Sauce Mayo
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Ingredients

Serves 6

Instructions

  • In a large bowl, stir together ½ cup olive oil, the parsley, garlic, red pepper flakes, and 1 teaspoon each salt and pepper.
  • Reserve ¼ cup of the marinade, and stir the shrimp into the remaining marinade.
  • Cover and set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
  • In a large pan on high heat, add olive oil to cover the bottom in a thin film.
  • When the oil begins to shimmer, add the shrimp, its marinade, and a pinch of salt.
  • Cook on high, stirring often, until the shrimp turn a whitish color and no longer look raw, 5 to 6 minutes.
  • Transfer the cooked shrimp to a large bowl, add the reserved marinade, and toss to coat.
  • Serve along with plenty of napkins as soon as the shrimp are cool enough to peel.
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Course; Fish

California Crab Boil

California Crab Boil

You can keep things simple and blanch fresh crab in salted water, or you can go in a different direction and make something really flavorful. The boil can be prepared a day in advance so you just have to cook the shellfish when you’re ready. Eat the crab and potatoes on their own or with Mother-Sauce Mayo on the side. What makes this a California crab boil, you ask? It’s meant to be eaten outdoors in the winter and washed down with an ice-cold California Chardonnay (I like Mount Eden Vineyards, close by in the Santa Cruz Mountains).
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Ingredients

Serves 6 to 8

  • 2 white onions
  • 1 750-ml bottle dry white wine
  • 1 750-ml bottle verjus (optional; just leave it out if you can’t find it)
  • cup apple cider vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
  • 2 tablespoons fennel seeds
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 2 lemons sliced
  • ¾ cup salt
  • 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
  • 6 quarts 24 cups water
  • 4 to 8 whole Dungeness crabs about ½ crab per person, and then some, for the overachievers, rinsed well with cold water
  • pounds baby potatoes

Instructions

This recipe requires an extra-large pot (I’m not messing around here, you need a big one).

  • First, char the onions.
  • This step is optional, but it adds a nice smoky flavor to the boil.
  • Cut off the ends of the onions (you can leave the skin on), then slice each in half.
  • Line a pan (cast iron, if you have it) with aluminum foil and place it on high heat.
  • Lay the onions on the pan, cut-side down, and let them sit without nudging until the cut side turns black, about 12 minutes.
  • Remove the onions’ outer skin.
  • In an extra-large pot on high heat, combine the onions, wine, verjus, vinegar, coriander, fennel, garlic, lemons, salt, peppercorns, and the water and bring to a boil.
  • Turn the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes.
  • Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool to room temperature.
  • Strain the stock into another large pot, discarding the solids.
  • The resulting liquid is called a “crab court-bouillon,” or a flavored stock for poaching crab.
  • Use immediately, or store the bouillon, covered, in your refrigerator for up to 24 hours.
  • Just before serving, bring the strained stock to a boil on high heat.
  • Once boiling, add the crabs and potatoes.
  • Boil, uncovered, for 8 minutes.
  • Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool to room temperature with the potatoes and crab still in the pot.
  • Drain.
  • Line your table (ideally outdoors) with newspaper.
  • Dump the crab and potatoes on the newspaper.
  • Eat with your hands, leaving the shells on the newspapers to be neatly folded up and tossed when no crabmeat or potatoes remain.
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Course; Fish
Cuisine; American

Oyster Stew

Oyster Stew

This stew is absurdly simple: just oysters in milk and butter. It is New England fisherman food, but there’s something elegant about it—maybe it’s that slick of butter that rests on top. Plus, it comes together in under 10 minutes
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Ingredients

Serves 4 as a starter

Instructions

  • In a large pot on medium heat, stir together the milk and butter.
  • When the butter has melted and combined with the milk, season with the pepper and a healthy pinch of salt.
  • Bring the milk to a simmer, stir in the oysters, their water, and the chives.
  • Cook until the oysters start to curl around the edges, about 1 minute.
  • To serve, divide the stew among four bowls and top with croutons.
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Course; Fish / Stew

Spicy Snapper Ceviche

Spicy Snapper Ceviche

This ceviche makes a refreshing lunch or a starter to a heavier meal. One finished, the dressing and juice left in the bowl are so delicious that you’ll find yourself wanting to slurp it up (my favorite friends are the ones who do). Feel free to prepare this up to 4 hours in advance and store it covered in your refrigerator until you are ready to serve.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 as a starter

  • 12 ounces snapper fillet skinned and bones removed
  • 1 large ruby red grapefruit
  • ¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice about 4 limes
  • Salt
  • 1 13.5-ounce can coconut milk (not “lite”)
  • 1 red onion halved and thinly sliced
  • 2 teaspoons chopped cilantro leaves
  • 1 jalapeño seeded and finely chopped
  • 1 serrano chile seeded and finely chopped (optional)
  • Fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish optional

Instructions

  • Slice the snapper into ¼-inch-wide strips and set them aside in a large bowl.
  • Using a sharp knife, peel the grapefruit and cut out its segments over a bowl to reserve the juice.
  • Set aside the segments, and stir the lime juice and a pinch of salt into the grapefruit juice.
  • Pour the mixture over the fish, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour.
  • The juice will cure the fish and turn it a milky-white color.
  • Shake the can of coconut milk to combine its cream and water.
  • Take the fish out of the fridge, drain off any excess juice, and gently stir in the onion, cilantro, jalapeño, serrano, and grapefruit segments.
  • Stir in enough of the coconut milk to just coat the ingredients (you may not use the whole can as you don’t want it to be soupy).
  • Set the mixture aside for 15 minutes to allow the onion to break down and the flavors to come together.
  • Garnish with parsley and serve.
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Course; Fish

Salmon with Pea & Mint Pesto

Salmon with Pea & Mint Pesto

I think of this as a light spring or summer weeknight meal, but since peas are the one vegetable I don’t mind using frozen, you can really make this pesto all year round. Spread any leftovers on crostini, stir into pasta, or use with anything as you would a traditional pesto.
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Equipment

  • Food processor , or blender

Ingredients

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 225°F and line a baking dish with aluminum foil.
  • Brush the salmon with a thin layer of olive oil and set it in the prepared dish, skin-side down.
  • Sprinkle the top with a pinch of kosher salt, and bake for 5 minutes.
  • Remove the dish from your oven, turn the fish over, and peel off and discard its skin.
  • Return the dish to your oven and bake until the salmon is medium-rare, about 10 minutes more.
  • Meanwhile, in a food processor or blender, pulse together the peas, mint, garlic, walnuts, and a pinch of salt until a rough paste forms.
  • Turn the speed to low and slowly add olive oil until you’ve reached your desired consistency (6 to 8 tablespoons).
  • Add the Pecorino and pulse until combined.
  • To serve, spread the pea pesto on a serving plate and top with the baked salmon.
  • Sprinkle with flaky sea salt and pepper to taste.
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Course; Fish

Salmon with Soy & Ginger

Salmon with Soy & Ginger

This simple gingery and garlicky salmon is unassuming, but sneakily delicious. It’s one of those dishes you learn to make once—and it sticks with you. You’ll make it over and over again, barely needing to check this page for instruction. Be sure to use a low-sodium soy sauce or the salmon and bok choy both will be too salty. Though very weeknight-for-one and leftovers-later friendly, if you make this for your friends, they’ll see it come together in twenty minutes and then ask for the recipe.
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Ingredients

  • Serves 4
  • 6 heads baby bok choy
  • 1 tablespoon sunflower oil
  • 2- inch piece fresh ginger peeled and finely diced
  • 3 cloves garlic finely chopped
  • ½ cup “lite” or low-sodium soy sauce
  • pounds salmon fillet cut into four equal portions

Instructions

  • Remove any tough outer leaves from the bok choy.
  • Trim off the bottom stem and tops, being careful not to trim the stem too high or it will fall apart.
  • Cut each head in half lengthwise.
  • Heat the sunflower oil in a large pan on medium heat.
  • When the oil is hot, place the bok choy, cut-side down, in the pan.
  • Cook, nudging the bok choy every so often to prevent sticking, until it has browned and caramelized at the bottom, about 5 minutes.
  • Turn the heat to low and add the ginger, garlic, and soy sauce.
  • Gently stir to combine, keeping the bok choy cut-side down.
  • Cover the pan and simmer until the bok choy has softened, about 5 minutes.
  • Remove the bok choy and set it aside.
  • With the heat still on low, place the salmon, skin-side down, in the pan and cover.
  • Cook for 5 minutes, then uncover the pan and tilt it so the soy sauce pools at the bottom.
  • Use a spoon to ladle the soy sauce, garlic, and ginger over the top of the salmon to baste it.
  • Return the bok choy to the pan, cover, and continue to cook until the salmon is cooked through, 5 minutes more.
  • Transfer the salmon to a cutting board.
  • Carefully remove the skin if desired.
  • Serve the salmon with a spoonful of the soy ginger sauce and a head or two of bok choy.
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Course; Fish