Eggplant with Black Olive Tapenade

Eggplant with Black Olive Tapenade

Eggplant is tragically underused in American kitchens. It’s incredibly versatile, as shown in this dish, wherein the eggplant is simply baked and used as a base for tapenade, almost like a vegetable “tartine.” I love to spoon this capery spread alongside fish, on toast, or on top of Smoky Eggplant “Caviar”name just about anything savory, and this tapenade will taste good scooped or spread or just spooned directly from your refrigerator with the door still half open (an act I usually reserve for ice cream). Feel free to make it ahead of time and store it in your refrigerator covered in olive oil for up to 2 weeks.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

Instructions

It helps to know: This recipe requires a food processor or blender.

  • Sprinkle the eggplant slices with salt on both sides.
  • Set aside for 30 minutes at room temperature to force out some of their water.
  • In a fine-mesh strainer, rinse the capers and anchovies in cold water, then soak them covered with cold water in a small bowl for 10 minutes to remove their salt.
  • Drain and set aside.
  • Preheat your oven to 425°F and line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.
  • Meanwhile, in a food processor or blender, puree together the olives, capers, anchovies, garlic, and a pinch each of pepper and the dried herbs of your choice.
  • With the food processor on low speed, slowly drizzle in the olive oil until it has fully incorporated and a paste has formed.
  • Pat the eggplants dry with a paper towel, then brush them with olive oil on each side.
  • Place on the prepared baking sheet in a single layer.
  • Bake for 15 minutes, flip, and bake until cooked through, about 15 minutes more.
  • Spread the olive tapenade on top of the eggplant slices and serve.
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Course; Fish / Vegetables

The Ultimate Potato Gratin

The Ultimate Potato Gratin

I call this the ultimate potato gratin because it’s that rare baked potato dish that I consider to be a showstopper, especially as a hearty side to roasted meats in the fall and winter. With this method, salted cream infused with garlic soaks into the potatoes as they bake. As if that’s not enough, it’s topped with a layer of Gruyère cheese, which bubbles and browns to form a decadent crust. My advice: don’t soak the potatoes in water—you need their starch to thicken the sauce.
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Ingredients

Serves 8 to 10 as a side

Instructions

It helps to know: This recipe requires an 8 by 12-inch gratin dish.

  • Preheat your oven to 375°F.
  • In a medium pot on medium heat, combine the cream, garlic, salt, and pepper and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally.
  • Taste the cream every few minutes until it transforms from tasting very salty to tasting strongly of garlic, about 10 minutes.
  • Strain over a large bowl.
  • Discard the garlic and set the bowl of infused cream aside.
  • Don’t be alarmed if the cream tastes far too salty at this point; the potatoes will soak up the salt as they bake.
  • Coat the bottom and sides of your baking dish with 2 tablespoons of the butter, then cover the bottom with a thin layer of infused cream.
  • Spread a layer of potatoes on top of the cream, overlapping the slices to resemble shingles.
  • Add just enough cream to cover the potatoes.
  • Continue this process, adding layers of cream, then potatoes, then cream, then potatoes, until you’ve filled your gratin dish (you may not use all of the potato slices).
  • Dot the surface of the dish with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, placing small pieces of butter evenly across the top.
  • Cover with aluminum foil, making sure the foil doesn’t touch the surface of the potatoes.
  • Use a knife to poke holes in the top to allow some steam to escape.
  • Place the gratin dish on a baking sheet to save you from a mess in your oven if the cream bubbles over.
  • Bake for 45 minutes.
  • Remove the foil and bake until the surface starts to brown, about 20 minutes.
  • Top with the Gruyère and bake until the cheese is melted and browned, about 10 minutes.
  • Remove the dish from your oven and let rest for 15 minutes before serving.
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Vegetable Tart with Saffron Mayonnaise

Vegetable Tart with Saffron Mayonnaise

This dish is the French interpretation of Imam bayildi, a traditional Turkish stuffed eggplant. To me, it’s the best of both worlds. One thing I love about this tart is that the “crust” is simply made of onions: there’s no rolling or weighing involved. The layered vegetables are gloriously caramelized, not to mention just as pretty as a more traditional tart.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6 as a side

  • TART
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus more for drizzling
  • 2 medium white onions thinly sliced
  • 2 cloves garlic finely chopped
  • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
  • 2 tomatoes Early Girl or Roma preferred, thinly sliced
  • 1 medium zucchini thinly sliced
  • 1 small Japanese eggplant thinly sliced
  • Salt
  • 1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

SAFFRON MAYO (OPTIONAL)

  • ½ teaspoon Spanish saffron threads
  • Mother-Sauce Mayo this page
  • Juice of 1 lemon

Instructions

  • It helps to know: This recipe requires an 8- to 9-inch baking dish.
  • If you don’t have a dish that large, you can use two small pie pans or halve the recipe.
  • To make the “tart,” in a large pan on medium heat, stir together the olive oil, onions, garlic, and thyme.
  • Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and lightly caramelized, about 20 minutes.
  • Set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Preheat your oven to 375°F.
  • Spread the onion mixture over the bottom of your baking dish to form a “crust.
  • ” Layer the tomatoes, zucchini, and eggplant in a cascading circle on top of the onions.
  • Alternate between the vegetables starting at the outside and working your way to the center.
  • It can be as pretty or as haphazard as you want, as long as the vegetables remain in one layer.
  • Drizzle the surface with olive oil, top with a couple large pinches of salt, and bake until the top is nicely browned and caramelized, about 45 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, to make the mayo, lightly toast the saffron in a small, dry pan on medium heat, shaking the pan until the saffron becomes fragrant and starts to lightly brown, about 1 minute.
  • Remove the pan from the heat and add 2 tablespoons water.
  • The pan will sizzle and the water will turn a vibrant orange.
  • Let cool to room temperature, then whisk the saffron water into your mayo, and stir in lemon juice to taste.
  • Remove the dish from your oven and let cool to room temperature.
  • Top with the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and carve into slices like a pie.
  • Serve the slices on their own or with the saffron mayo on the side.
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Course; Quiche / Vegetables

Cavolo Nero Gratin

Cavolo Nero Gratin

If I’m going to convince you to buy anything for your kitchen I hope it’s a gratin dish. It’s an amazing investment that will make you a more versatile cook, as you can “gratin” just about anything. Just pour some oil and/or cream over leftover vegetables, meat, or fish; top with bread crumbs and grated cheese; bake it in the oven; and voilà!, it’s a gratin. This one in particular takes kale and a can of beans and makes a near-certain crowd-pleaser for any group. The hero is most likely the crème fraîche, but the gratin dish helps, too (I promise, it’s worth it).
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Ingredients

Serves 2 to 4 as a main, 4 to 6 as a side

Instructions

It helps to know: This recipe requires an 8 by 12-inch gratin dish.

  • Preheat your oven to 425°F.
  • Coat your gratin dish with butter.
  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil on high heat.
  • Once boiling, add a pinch of salt.
  • Dunk the kale in the boiling water for 2 minutes to blanch.
  • Drain and cool on a cutting board.
  • Shake out any excess water and coarsely chop into bite-size pieces.
  • In a large mixing bowl, stir together the kale, beans, garlic, black pepper, and a pinch each of cayenne and salt until combined.
  • Spread the mixture across the bottom of the gratin dish.
  • Scoop the crème fraîche into even dollops on top of the kale.
  • Top with the Gruyère, then sprinkle on the bread crumbs.
  • Bake until the kale is soft and the Gruyère is brown and bubbly, about 30 minutes.
  • Remove the dish from your oven and let the gratin rest for 10 minutes before serving.
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Course; Casserole

Chickpea Minestrone, Genovese Style

Chickpea Minestrone, Genovese Style

I like to think of this recipe as more of a guide than a hard-and-fast rule. This minestrone is meant to be a pantry soup: throw in whatever you have on hand or whatever vegetables you like most. Maybe substitute rice for the macaroni or add a handful of mushrooms or other hearty greens. What makes this soup special is my ultimate pantry staple: a Genovese-style pesto. In the final moments, stir in the pesto and a squeeze of lemon, and what was once a basic pantry soup becomes a flavorful and healthy meal you can eat all week long.
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Ingredients

Serves 6 to 8

  • 12 cups Chickpea Stock this page, Chicken Stock (this page), or water
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 bunch spinach coarsely chopped
  • 1 bunch Swiss chard thick stems discarded and leaves coarsely chopped
  • 1 bunch Tuscan kale thick stems discarded and leaves coarsely chopped
  • 2 small zucchini cut into ¼-inch slices
  • 2 medium Yukon gold potatoes cut into ½-inch slices
  • 2 small Japanese eggplants or 1 globe eggplant peeled, quartered, and cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 1 baseball-size turnip peeled, quartered, and cut into ¼-inch slices
  • ¾ cup macaroni
  • 2 cups cooked chickpeas or 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
  • 3 tablespoons Seven-Ingredient Pesto
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 lemon wedge
  • Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving

Instructions

  • In a large pot on high heat, bring the stock and olive oil to a boil.
  • Add the spinach, chard, kale, zucchini, potatoes, eggplant, and turnip and turn the heat to low to maintain a gentle simmer.
  • Cook, uncovered, for 1 hour.
  • Add the macaroni and simmer for 20 minutes.
  • (The macaroni is overcooked on purpose, as the starch it releases gives the soup a nice texture.)
  • Add the chickpeas and simmer for 5 minutes.
  • Stir in the pesto.
  • Season with salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon to taste.
  • Ladle the minestrone into bowls.
  • Serve with a bowl of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano on the side.
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Course; Soup

Spring Peas in a Casserole

Spring Peas in a Casserole

Peas à la française sounds fancy, but it’s easy to make—shelling the peas being the most time-consuming part. From there, this side dish almost makes itself with a small amount of attention. In my mind, there’s no better way to capture that fleeting, mythical spring pea moment than with this method.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6 as a side

  • 1 clove garlic halved
  • 3 tablespoons butter softened
  • 1 head oak leaf or Bibb lettuce
  • 2 cups shelled English peas
  • 6 tender mint leaves
  • Salt

Instructions

It helps to know: This recipe requires a small (about 5 by 6 inches) stovetop-safe casserole dish with a tight-fitting lid.

  • Rub the cut side of the garlic clove over the bottom and sides of the casserole dish, then do the same with half of the butter.
  • Tear the lettuce leaves apart and press half of them into the sides and bottom of the casserole dish, overlapping to form a “bowl” (they don’t need to be perfectly aligned).
  • This makes a compartment to hold the peas.
  • In a small bowl, toss the peas with the mint leaves and a pinch of salt.
  • Spoon the pea and mint mixture into the lettuce bowl.
  • Dot the remaining 1½ tablespoons butter evenly on top of the peas by pinching off pieces about the size of a hazelnut.
  • Pour 1 tablespoon water over the peas.
  • Lay the rest of the lettuce on top of the peas to completely enclose them.
  • Cover the casserole dish and place it on the stove on low heat.
  • This next part is magical.
  • Be patient, as it requires a little bit of time.
  • After 15 to 18 minutes, the butter will melt, the lettuce will release its water, and the peas will slowly stew in the butter-lettuce juices; it’s sublime.
  • Don’t be afraid to take a peek!
  • The dish is ready when its volume has reduced, liquid has formed in the pot, the lettuce has wilted, and the peas have turned an olive green.
  • Take the entire casserole dish to the table.
  • Remove the lid and take a moment to appreciate the aroma.
  • Serve immediately.
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Ratatouille, Hot or Cold, Poached Egg or Not

Ratatouille, Hot or Cold, Poached Egg or Not

This vegetable stew has been around for ages, yet feels as contemporary now as ever before. Though it’s usually served hot as an accompaniment to a main protein, I love ratatouille cold, topped with a poached egg, as a refreshing main course in the summer when Provençal vegetables are at the height of seasonality. I prefer to make this in a wide, heavy pot to allow for maximum evaporation and consolidation of flavor. Never let the stew sit on a boil; simmer it gently to ensure the vegetables maintain their shape. The extra step of reducing the vegetables’ juices is well worth the added few minutes. If you have a big enough pot, double the recipe, as this keeps well for several days. In fact, this is one of those dishes that will taste better on the second day.
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Ingredients

Serves 6 to 8

Instructions

  • For the vegetables to cook at a similar rate, they must be cut to about the same size.
  • Using the quartered onions as a reference point, prepare the bell peppers.
  • Discard their stems and seeds, cut in half lengthwise, then cut again lengthwise to match the size of the onions.
  • The same applies to the zucchini and eggplant.
  • Discard the ends, cut in half lengthwise, and cut to match the size of the onions, leaving the seeds in.
  • Set aside in separate piles, as you’ll cook them separately.
  • Cut the tomatoes in half horizontally.
  • Squeeze their seeds out over the sink to discard and coarsely chop the remaining flesh.
  • Set aside.
  • In a large pot on medium heat, combine the onions and ¼ cup of the olive oil, and sauté, stirring occasionally, so they soften but don’t brown, about 10 minutes.
  • Add the bell peppers, garlic, a pinch of espelette pepper, and a large pinch of salt.
  • Continue to cook until the bell peppers have softened.
  • Transfer the onion and pepper mixture to a large bowl and set aside.
  • With the pot still on medium heat, stir together ¼ cup of the olive oil and the eggplant.
  • Cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant begins to take on some color, about 2 minutes.
  • Add the zucchini and cook until softened, about 4 minutes.
  • Return the onion and pepper mixture to the pot and stir in the tomatoes and thyme until combined.
  • At this point, the tomatoes will expel their water and the mixture will resemble a soup.
  • Increase the heat until the liquid comes to a gentle boil, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, then turn the heat to low and cover your pot with the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape.
  • Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are cooked through but maintain their shape, 1 to 1½ hours.
  • Be careful to stir gently so as not to break up the vegetables.
  • Set a colander over a large bowl.
  • Carefully transfer the entire contents of the pot into the colander, reserving both the vegetables and their juices.
  • Return the juices to the pot.
  • Stir in the tomato paste and turn the heat to high.
  • Bring the liquid to a boil, stirring often, until it has a thick and syrupy texture, 3 to 5 minutes.
  • Remove the pot from the heat and gently stir in the vegetables, parsley, basil, and the remaining ¼ cup olive oil, being careful not to break up the vegetables.
  • Add salt and black pepper to taste.
  • Serve immediately on its own or topped with a poached egg, or chill the ratatouille thoroughly in your refrigerator before serving.
  • Stored in an airtight container, the stew will keep in your refrigerator for up to 4 days.
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Course; Eggs / Side Dish / Stew / Vegetables

Lentil Soup with Smoked Ham

Lentil Soup with Smoked Ham

This dish is cured, smoked, and porky—everything one needs in a hearty winter soup. Making the stock with smoked ham hocks yields the best flavor for the lentils if you have the time. That said, you could also use 6 cups of any store-bought stock of your choice (or even water) and 8 ounces of cooked bacon in a pinch. Serves 6 to 8
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Ingredients

Serves 6 to 8

STOCK

  • 2 smoked ham hocks
  • 1 large leek trimmed, white and tender green parts cut into large pieces
  • 1 carrot peeled and halved horizontally
  • 1 rib celery halved horizontally
  • 1 head garlic halved, skin on
  • 2 black peppercorns
  • 4 sprigs thyme
  • 1 pound green or black lentils rinsed in cold water
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus more for drizzling
  • Garlicky Herbed Croutons optional

Instructions

  • Put the ham hocks in a large pot on high heat, cover with water, and bring to a simmer.
  • Once simmering, drain the water and return the hocks to the pot.
  • This removes some of the salt from the ham hocks (don’t skip this step or the soup will be too salty).
  • Cover the ham hocks with cold water and bring to a simmer on high heat.
  • Once the water is simmering, turn the heat to low and add the leek, carrot, celery, garlic, peppercorns, and thyme.
  • Cover the pot with the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape, and simmer until the ham hocks are tender, about 2½ hours.
  • Using tongs, transfer the ham hocks to a cutting board.
  • Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain the remaining liquid over a large bowl, reserving the stock and discarding the vegetables and herbs.
  • Peel off the skin and excess fat from the ham hocks and discard.
  • Slice the remaining meat into bite-size pieces and set aside.
  • Return the pot to the stove on medium heat.
  • Add the lentils, olive oil, and enough stock to cover the lentils by 2 inches.
  • Bring to a simmer, turn the heat to medium-low, and cover the pot with the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape.
  • Simmer for 20 minutes, then stir in the ham, cover as before, and simmer until the lentils are cooked through, about 40 minutes more.
  • To serve, ladle the soup into bowls and top each with a drizzle of olive oil and a handful of croutons.
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Course; Soup

Belgian Endive Gratin

Belgian Endive Gratin

I first had this dish when it was served as a staff meal at a restaurant in France, and it has stuck with me all these years. I love it either as a side dish or a main course for a casual dinner party. It’s an easy hit: it’s hard to argue with ham and
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Ingredients

Serves 6 to 8

Instructions

It helps to know: This recipe requires an 8 by 12-inch gratin dish.

  • To make a béchamel sauce, bring the milk to a simmer in a small pot on low heat.
  • In a second small pot on low heat, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter.
  • Add the flour to the butter to make a roux, whisking continuously to prevent it from burning.
  • Continue whisking until the roux turns a light yellow color, about 10 minutes.
  • Slowly pour the simmering milk into the roux, a couple of tablespoons at a time.
  • Whisk continuously on low heat until it thickens to a syrupy consistency.
  • Season with a couple generous pinches each of salt and pepper.
  • Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.
  • To prepare the endives, peel off the outer leaves until you’re left with the firm and mostly white hearts.
  • Trim and discard the bottom stem, being careful not to trim too high or they’ll fall apart.
  • Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a large pot on medium heat.
  • Working in batches, set the endives in the melted butter and turn until they’re fully browned on each side, about 10 minutes total.
  • Set the browned endives aside as you brown the remaining endives.
  • Preheat your oven to 375°F.
  • Return the endives to the pan.
  • Turn the heat to low and add the lemon juice, 3 tablespoons water, and a pinch of salt.
  • Cover the pan with the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape, and simmer until the endives are cooked through, about 20 minutes.
  • Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Roll each endive in a ham slice like a blanket.
  • Whisk out any lumps from your béchamel, then spread a spoonful evenly across the bottom of your gratin dish.
  • Set the ham-wrapped endives in one layer on top of the béchamel.
  • Scoop the rest of the béchamel on top, then top with the Gruyère.
  • Place the dish on a baking sheet to save you from a mess if it bubbles over.
  • Bake until everything is heated through, caramelized, and bubbly, about 45 minutes.
  • Serve immediately.
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Cuisine; Belgium / European

Roast Chicken from David Kinch

Roast Chicken from David Kinch

A roast chicken is my favorite thing to make and to eat. Done correctly, I believe it’s one of the grandest dishes of all time. In fact, there’s very little I’d rather be doing than making a roast chicken for someone I love. In other words, this recipe is the result of countless chickens that have passed through my home oven. If I’ve learned anything over many years of roasting chickens, it’s to focus on the legs. Because the breast is exposed and has very little fat, the heat affects it quickly. The legs, being on the bone, cook slower, which leaves you fighting an undercooked leg or an overcooked breast. For this reason, it’s essential that you stuff the bird. An empty cavity will fill with hot air and cook the breast even faster. I have given some stuffing suggestions here, but you can stuff it with whatever you have on hand. You can even fill it with rolled-up balls of aluminum foil if necessary—anything to stop the heat from entering the chicken undisturbed. Also, I roast the bird on each side to more aggressively cook the legs. Ideally you have a large Dutch oven so you can prop up the bird easily and use the resulting fond (this page) to make a jus out of the caramelized drippings (though the jus is optional). If you don’t have a Dutch oven, a roasting pan, flat baking sheet, or casserole dish will also work.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

  • 4½- to 5- pound chicken if you use a 2- to 3-pound chicken, reduce the cooking times to about 15 minutes on each side, 10 minutes on its back
  • ½ cup butter softened
  • Salt

STUFFING SUGGESTIONS

VEGETABLE SUGGESTIONS

Instructions

It helps to know: The chicken must sit for 24 hours before roasting.

  • Remove any fat from the inside of the chicken and discard.
  • Rinse the chicken inside and out with cold water and pat it thoroughly with paper towels to dry.
  • Place the bird, uncovered, in your refrigerator for 24 hours to dry out its skin.
  • Remove the chicken from your refrigerator and let it come to room temperature before roasting.
  • Preheat your oven to 450°F and place a roasting dish inside for 10 minutes to bring it to medium heat.
  • This prevents sticking.
  • Stuff the cavity with the vegetables and herbs of your choice.
  • Use your hands to coat the entire outside of the chicken with the butter, then sprinkle it liberally with salt.
  • Remove your roasting dish from your oven, and carefully set the chicken on its side, using the side of the dish for balance.
  • Roast for 20 minutes, then use tongs to carefully flip the chicken onto its other side.
  • Roast for another 20 minutes.
  • Remove the pan from your oven and turn the temperature to 400°F.
  • Leave your oven door open for 2 minutes to cool.
  • Use tongs to flip the bird onto its back so its breast is facing up.
  • Toss the herbs and vegetables of your choice in a bowl with enough olive oil to coat and a pinch each of salt and pepper.
  • Spread them around the chicken and return the pot to your oven.
  • Roast until the bird’s skin is browned and the flesh is cooked through, about 20 minutes.
  • To test for doneness, poke the leg near the socket.
  • If the liquid runs pink, the chicken needs more time.
  • If it runs clear, the chicken is ready.
  • Transfer the chicken, breast-side up, to a cutting board to rest for 30 minutes.
  • This is important: if you cut into the meat without allowing it to rest, it won’t be as juicy.
  • If your vegetables need more time, return the pan to your oven and roast until they’re cooked through.
  • Transfer the vegetables to a serving bowl and set aside.
  • Pour any liquid remaining into a bowl to reserve.
  • To make the jus, return the pan to the stove on high heat.
  • Add the white wine and use a spoon to scrape up the brown bits that have stuck to the bottom of the pan.
  • Add the reserved chicken liquid and stir until it comes to a simmer.
  • Add salt to taste.
  • Once the chicken has rested, flip it onto its stomach and pull out the two small meat pockets around the middle of its back (you should be able to pull them out fairly easily using your hands).
  • This is the “oyster”—or the best part of the chicken.
  • Give one to your favorite guest and eat the other while you finish cutting the bird.
  • Flip the chicken onto its back and use a sharp knife to cut off the wings at the elbow.
  • Cut a diagonal slice at each leg so they spread open, and pop each leg out of its joint using your thumb.
  • Once the bone is free, cut the remaining skin and flesh to detach each leg.
  • Cut just to the right of the center breastbone, and then into the right side of the breast, meeting the middle slice so the meat easily falls off the bone.
  • Repeat with the left breast.
  • Cut off the wishbone by slicing across and down the breast, a few inches below the neck.
  • Slice off the last part of the wing, and pull or cut off any pieces of meat that are left.
  • Discard the stuffing (it’s unsafe to eat) and return the carcass to the pot to make chicken stock (this page).
  • Serve the jus in a separate bowl for dipping.
  • Serve the roast chicken and vegetables together, family style.
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Course; Chicken