Special Butter Cake

Special Butter Cake

This is a simple, rich, and moist cake for which you should choose your butter (and your friends) wisely. Easily made in California and a handful of other states, the number of which are increasing every four years or so, it’s perhaps a dessert best enjoyed at the beginning of the meal. In the words of Alice B. Toklas describing the Haschich Fudge in her 1954 bestseller The Alice B. Toklas Cook Book: “This is the food of Paradise—of Baudelaire’s Artificial Paradises: it might provide an entertaining refreshment for a Ladies’ Bridge Club or a chapter meeting of the DAR. In Morocco it is thought to be good for warding off the common cold in damp winter weather and is, indeed, more effective if taken with large quantities of hot mint tea. Euphoria and brilliant storms of laughter; ecstatic reveries and extension of one’s personality on several simultaneous planes are to be complacently expected.”
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Ingredients

Serves 6

Instructions

  • It helps to know: This recipe requires a 9- to 10-inch round cake pan.
  • Preheat your oven to 350°F.
  • Grease a cake pan with 2 teaspoons butter.
  • Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the sugar into the pan, then shake and tilt the pan until it’s evenly coated in the sugar.
  • Turn the pan upside down and tap it to shake off any excess sugar.
  • In a large bowl, use a wooden spoon to stir together the remaining butter and sugar until combined.
  • Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing each with the wooden spoon until thoroughly combined.
  • Grate the zest from the orange and lemon over the bowl and then add the juice (no need to strain).
  • Mix until smooth.
  • Sift the flour, baking powder, and a pinch of salt into a small bowl and stir to combine.
  • Fold the flour mixture into the batter and mix until just combined.
  • Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and tap the pan gently on your countertop to settle the batter into an even layer.
  • Bake until the cake starts to pull away from the sides of the pan and turn golden, about 25 minutes.
  • Remove the cake from your oven and let it cool until it’s just slightly warm.
  • Turn the cake out of the pan, cut it into thick slices, and serve.
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Course; Cake

A Stone Fruit & Basil Compote with Mascarpone Cream

A Stone Fruit & Basil Compote with Mascarpone Cream

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Ingredients

MASCARPONE CREAM

COMPOTE

  • ½ cup sugar
  • 2 cups chopped apricots or peaches 4 to 6 medium peaches or apricots
  • 6 to 8 small basil leaves or large leaves halved with kitchen scissors

Instructions

  • To make the mascarpone cream, in a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until creamy and pale in color.
  • Add the mascarpone and whisk until just incorporated.
  • In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff.
  • In other words, when you lift the whisk, the egg whites hold their shape.
  • Gently fold the egg whites into the egg yolk mixture along with the orange juice and zest.
  • Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in your refrigerator to firm for at least 30 minutes or up to I hour.
  • Meanwhile, to make the compote, in a small pot over medium-high heat, stir together the sugar and ¾ cup water.
  • Simmer, stirring frequently, until the sugar has dissolved, about 5 minutes.
  • Add the fruit, bring the mixture back to a simmer, then turn the heat to low and simmer until the fruit is completely soft, 8 to 10 minutes.
  • Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the basil to taste.
  • To serve, scoop the compote into bowls and add a dollop of mascarpone cream on top.
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Course; Cheese / Fruit

A Cherry Compote with Lemon Verbena

A Cherry Compote with Lemon Verbena

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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

  • 2 cups sweet cherries halved and pitted
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 5 lemon verbena leaves

Instructions

  • In a small pot, combine the cherries and sugar.
  • Add ¼ cup water and the lemon verbena.
  • Set the pot over low heat and stir occasionally until the mixture comes to a simmer.
  • Simmer until the cherries are completely soft, 6 to 8 minutes.
  • Remove the pot from the heat and discard the lemon verbena.
  • Serve warm.
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Course; Fruit

A Mixed Berry Compote

A Mixed Berry Compote

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Ingredients

  • 2 cups mixed berries blackberries, raspberries, sliced strawberries, and so on
  • 2 tablespoons sugar

Instructions

  • In a bowl, stir together the berries and sugar.
  • Pour the mixture into a pot and set over low heat.
  • Stir gently until the fruit begins to release its juices, about 2 minutes.
  • After the mixture starts to bubble and break down into liquid, simmer gently for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  • Serve warm.
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Course; Fruit

Lemon Caramel

Lemon Caramel

Caramel is the one sweet that I just can’t turn down—I absolutely adore the flavor of burnt sugar. This caramel combines burnt sugar with my other great food obsession: citrus. It’s everything I could ask for in a sauce. Serve this with the Rice Pudding Sundae (this page), or over yogurt or vanilla ice cream, perhaps topped with a spoonful of salty granola.
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Ingredients

Makes about 1 cup

Instructions

  • To separate the vanilla bean from its pod, split the pod in half lengthwise.
  • Use a small knife to scrape out the seeds, then wipe them on the side of the pod.
  • This is the easiest, cleanest way to utilize both the seeds and pod.
  • Pour ½ cup water into a small pot on low heat.
  • Carefully pour the sugar into the center of the pot (you don’t want the sugar to touch the sides or it will crystallize).
  • Without stirring, turn the heat to high.
  • Continue to watch the pot, without stirring, until the sugar melts, the water evaporates, and the liquid turns a light golden straw color, about 9 minutes.
  • Turn the heat to medium and watch carefully while the sugar turns a medium to dark amber (in other words, the color of caramel), 2 to 3 minutes more.
  • Meanwhile, warm the cream in a small pan on low heat or in a bowl in your microwave.
  • This will reduce the amount of sputtering and splashing when you add it to the hot sugar.
  • Turn off the heat under the caramel, leaving the pot on the burner.
  • Pour in a small splash of cream at a time.
  • (Be careful, it will sputter and spit.
  • ) Swirl the pan to mix.
  • When it stops sputtering, add another splash of cream.
  • Continue with this process until you’ve added all of the cream.
  • Remove the pan from the burner and stir in the vanilla bean or extract, the lemon juice, and a pinch of salt.
  • Set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Remove the vanilla bean and use immediately, or store covered in your refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
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Course; Dessert

Rice Pudding Sundae

Rice Pudding Sundae

This lighthearted, fun, and quick dessert is the perfect way to bring out your guests’ inner child. Give everyone their own bowl of rice pudding and set up the assorted toppings like a sundae bar in the center of the table. Imagine how you would top an adult ice cream sundae: fresh fruit, nuts, granola, praline, dried fruit, trail mix, or my favorite, Lemon Caramel I’m not a huge fan of cinnamon myself, but you can add it if you like. Nutmeg is also a welcome addition, as long as it’s freshly grated.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

Instructions

  • To separate the vanilla bean from its pod, split the pod in half lengthwise.
  • Use a small knife to scrape out the seeds, then wipe them on the side of the pod.
  • This is the easiest, cleanest way to utilize both the seeds and pod.
  • In a medium pot on medium heat, combine the milk, vanilla bean or extract, rice, and a pinch of salt and bring to a simmer.
  • Cook, stirring frequently, until the rice is soft and slightly overcooked, 25 to 30 minutes.
  • Turn down the heat if the milk starts to bubble and boil over, and stir from the bottom of the pot to prevent the rice from sticking.
  • When the rice is cooked through and resembles a porridge, stir in the sugar and remove the pot from the stove.
  • Pour the rice into a large serving bowl and let cool to room temperature.
  • Meanwhile, whip the cream until it forms soft peaks.
  • In other words, when you lift the whisk up, the cream holds a peak for a second or two, but quickly melts back into itself.
  • When the rice pudding has cooled, remove the vanilla bean and fold in the whipped cream.
  • Ladle into bowls and serve with the toppings of your choice.
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Course; Dessert / Rice

Roasted Figs with Pomegranate

Roasted Figs with Pomegranate

Figs have two seasons: a quick burst in early summer and a longer run in the fall. This dessert is best for the second crop in the fall when both figs and pomegranates are delightfully ripe. Perfect for those of us who aren’t really dessert people, this dish is low-maintenance, spicy, citrusy, and winey, and it combines fresh fruit and cooked fruit in all the best ways.
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Ingredients

Serves 6 to 8

  • Seeds from 2 medium pomegranates
  • Juice from 1 orange
  • Juice from 1 lemon
  • ½ cup dry red wine
  • 6 black peppercorns optional
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 8 to 10 fresh figs halved

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 375°F.
  • Lightly crush half of the pomegranate seeds in a large bowl to release their juices.
  • Stir in the orange and lemon juices, the red wine, and peppercorns.
  • In a medium pot over medium heat, melt the butter until it foams and begins to lightly brown.
  • Add the pomegranate seed mixture and stir for 30 seconds.
  • Remove the pot from the heat and set aside.
  • Arrange the figs in a single layer in a baking dish, cut-side up.
  • Pour the butter and pomegranate mixture over the figs.
  • Roast, removing the dish every 5 minutes or so to baste (scoop the juices pooled at the bottom over the top of the figs), until the figs are softened but maintain their shape, about 18 minutes.
  • Remove the dish from your oven and let cool for 5 minutes.
  • To serve, sprinkle the figs with the remaining pomegranate seeds.
  • Divide among serving bowls, scooping plenty of juice and pomegranate seeds over the top.
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Course; Fruit

Figs & Fennel

Figs & Fennel

Wild fennel grows like a weed in California. If you happen upon it—pick the flowering heads and tender shoots. They dry well and make a welcome addition to fish or just about anything on the grill. I love wild fennel for this dish, but if you can’t find it, store-bought fennel bulbs also work. This recipe keeps well in your refrigerator, so feel free to make it in advance. Serve it on its own, or like most things, it’s even better with vanilla ice cream.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

  • 6 tablespoons honey
  • ½ 750-ml bottle sweet dessert wine, such as a Sauternes or sweet Riesling
  • 2 heads wild fennel flowers and stems intact, or 2 fennel bulbs, outer layers discarded
  • ½ teaspoon fennel seeds
  • 10 slightly firm fresh figs
  • Vanilla ice cream for serving optional

Instructions

  • In a medium pan on low heat, combine the honey, wine, fennel, and fennel seeds and bring to a simmer.
  • Meanwhile, use a toothpick to poke three holes around the base of each fig.
  • When the honey has melted and the wine is simmering, place the figs in the pan stem-side up and cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid.
  • Poach until the figs are soft, about 8 minutes.
  • Transfer the figs to a bowl, reserving the liquid in the pan.
  • Turn the heat to high and simmer until the wine mixture has reduced by half and has the consistency of syrup, about 8 minutes.
  • Pour the warm syrup over the figs, cover, and set in your refrigerator to chill for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 week.
  • Divide the figs among serving bowls, drizzling plenty of syrup on top.
  • Serve as is, or with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
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Course; Dessert / Fruit

Day-After Meyer Lemon Tart

Day-After Meyer Lemon Tart

When this tart sets, the flavors meld, and it tastes even better the next day, so it’s the perfect dessert to prepare the night before a dinner party. It’s one of the few recipes in this book where I’ll make a case for buying a $10 digital scale. The volume of a cup of flour will differ on a sunny day versus a rainy day, enough to throw off the entire recipe. But 370 grams of flour is, and always will be, 370 grams of flour. That said, if you’re ready to turn to the next page because a scale is just too much, consider making only the filling instead. It’s a simple lemon curd that’s delicious on ice cream, yogurt, or toast in the morning; on its own; or perhaps with ricotta cheese.
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Ingredients

Serves 8 to 10

CRUST

FILLING

  • 12 Meyer lemons
  • 8 eggs at room temperature
  • 2 cups granulated sugar sifted (increase this by ¼ cup if you’re using regular lemons)
  • ¾ cup butter softened

Instructions

It helps to know: This recipe requires uncooked rice or dried beans for weighting the crust.

  • First make the crust.
  • (This is easily done by pulsing in a food processor, but since I already made you buy a scale, I’ll explain it the low-tech way.
  • ) In a large bowl, cream together the butter and confectioners’ sugar using a wooden spoon until well combined (it will look fluffy and lighter in color).
  • Beat in one egg until fully incorporated.
  • Repeat with the second egg.
  • Sift in the flour, cornstarch, and salt and continue to beat until a dough has formed.
  • Shape the dough into a ball and flatten it with the palm of your hand.
  • Wrap in plastic and place in your refrigerator to chill for 1 hour.
  • Preheat your oven to 375°F.
  • Grease a 9- to 11-inch tart mold with 2 teaspoons butter.
  • Remove the dough from your refrigerator and place it between a folded piece of parchment paper to prevent sticking.
  • Roll the dough into a circle about ¼ inch thick and a bit larger than your tart mold.
  • Carefully transfer the rolled-out dough to your buttered tart mold.
  • Use your fingers to gently press the dough into the sides of the tart mold, then cut off any excess dough draping over the top—you want the crust to just come to the top of your mold.
  • Use a fork to poke holes across the bottom of the tart shell to prevent it from puffing up as it bakes.
  • Line the shell with cheesecloth, draping it over the side of the mold to prevent the edges from burning.
  • Fill the cheesecloth with a ½-inch layer of uncooked rice or dried beans to make a weight that prevents the dough from puffing.
  • Return the dough to your refrigerator to chill until firm, about 5 minutes.
  • Bake until the shell is nicely browned around the edges, about 25 minutes.
  • Remove and discard the weights and cheesecloth and continue to bake until the middle is browned, about 5 minutes more.
  • Remove the crust from your oven and set aside to cool.
  • To make the filling, grate the zest from the lemons into a large bowl.
  • Juice the lemons into a separate bowl, then strain the juice into the bowl with the zest.
  • Whisk in the eggs and granulated sugar.
  • Pour the mixture into a saucepan on medium-low heat.
  • Using a wooden spoon, stir constantly until the mixture begins to thicken.
  • Never allow the mixture to boil or it will curdle.
  • (If it does curdle, don’t panic!
  • Keep reducing it, add the butter, and then transfer it to a blender and blend until smooth.
  • ) Once the mixture has thickened considerably, 10 to 15 minutes, pour it into a large bowl.
  • Stir in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until all of the butter has been incorporated.
  • Pour the filling into your tart shell and let cool to room temperature to set the filling.
  • Cover the tart with plastic wrap and chill in your refrigerator for at least 1 hour, or ideally overnight.
  • Remove 10 minutes before serving.
  • Leftovers can be stored, covered, in your refrigerator for up to 5 days.
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Course; Dessert / Fruit / Tarts

Strawberries in a Rosé Wine Hibiscus Syrup

Strawberries in a Rosé Wine Hibiscus Syrup

These strawberries are tart and floral, and, like most dishes in this chapter, go very well with vanilla ice cream. If you’ve ever had a Jamaica, the iced tea drink made from hibiscus flowers, you know that the syrup will be an intensely vivid maroon-pink. The syrup combined with simple ripe fresh fruit is everything I want in a dessert at home: tasty, fun, simple, sweet-but-not-too-sweet, and, best of all, pretty.
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Ingredients

Serves 4

  • 1 vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 cups dry rosé wine
  • ⅓ cup sugar
  • ¼ cup dried hibiscus flowers
  • 1 pound strawberries washed and hulled
  • Softly whipped fresh cream or vanilla ice cream for serving optional

Instructions

  • To separate the vanilla bean from its pod, split the pod in half lengthwise.
  • Use a small knife to scrape out the seeds, then wipe them on the side of the pod.
  • This is the easiest, cleanest way to utilize both the seeds and pod.
  • In a medium pot on high heat, bring the wine and sugar to a boil.
  • Once boiling, turn the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved and the majority of the alcohol has cooked out, about 5 minutes.
  • Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the hibiscus flowers and vanilla bean (if you’re using vanilla extract, don’t add it yet).
  • Let the wine cool to room temperature.
  • It will infuse with the vanilla and hibiscus while it cools.
  • Strain the syrup over a large bowl, reserving the liquid that’s formed.
  • Use a large spoon to press as much liquid as possible from the hibiscus flowers.
  • Discard the flowers and vanilla bean.
  • If you’re using vanilla extract, stir it into the syrup.
  • Quarter the larger strawberries and halve the smaller ones.
  • Put them in a bowl large enough to hold both the strawberries and the syrup.
  • Pour the rosé syrup over the strawberries.
  • Cover and set in your refrigerator to chill for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.
  • Divide the berries and a generous amount of syrup among four glasses.
  • Serve as is, or with a spoonful of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.
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Course; Dessert / Fruit