Recipes

Linguine with Clams & Shrimp

Linguine with Clams & Shrimp

This dish is a classic linguine with clams with one small upgrade: one of my favorite crustaceans. Serve it in the summer months, with a bowl in the middle of the table for the shells, and a glass of chilled white wine or rosé alongside each plate.
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Ingredients

Instructions

  • Rinse the clams thoroughly in cold water, then soak them in cold water for 30 minutes.
  • Rinse thoroughly once more to remove any remaining sand, then drain and set aside, discarding any clams that have opened.
  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil on high heat.
  • Once boiling, add salt to taste.
  • Meanwhile, in a large pot on medium heat, stir together the olive oil, onion, and a pinch of salt.
  • Cook until the onion has softened but hasn’t taken on any color, about 7 minutes.
  • Add the garlic and stir until it’s soft but hasn’t taken on any color, 1 to 2 minutes.
  • Add the shrimp and stir to combine.
  • Turn the heat to high and add the clams and white wine.
  • Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and steam until the clams open and release their juices, about 2½ minutes.
  • Strain the pot over a bowl to reserve the juices.
  • Return the juices to the pot and reduce over high heat until the liquid foams and thickens, about 3 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, add the linguine to the pot of boiling water and cook to al dente according to the package instructions.
  • Drain the pasta through a colander and add it along with the shellfish, onions, garlic, and parsley to the reduced juices.
  • Stir until the pasta has absorbed some of the liquid and is nicely coated in the sauce.
  • Divide the pasta among four plates or bowls and serve immediately.
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Course; Fish / Pasta

Pasta with Pesto & Avocado

Pasta with Pesto & Avocado

In many ways, the Mediterranean coasts of France and Italy remind me of my home in California. As a result, I’ve given my California take on a Ligurian pasta a lot of thought. In Europe, in the small towns facing the sea, chefs add potatoes and green beans to stretch their pasta as a nod to their tradition of frugality. In California, I add avocado.
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Ingredients

  • Serves 4
  • Salt
  • 2 tablespoons Seven-Ingredient Pesto this page
  • 1 pound trofie bucatini, tagliatelle, or spaghetti
  • 1 ripe avocado peeled, seeded, and cubed to about ½ inch
  • Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving optional

Instructions

  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil on high heat.
  • Once the water is boiling, add salt to taste.
  • Scoop the pesto into a bowl large enough to hold the pasta.
  • Add the trofie to the pot and follow the instructions on the package to cook to al dente.
  • Just before it’s finished cooking, ladle ¼ cup of the pasta water into the pesto and stir to thin.
  • Don’t worry if the pesto looks too thin: the sauce will thicken from the starch of the pasta.
  • Reserve an additional 1 cup of pasta water.
  • Drain the pasta and stir it into the pesto, adding the reserved pasta water, if necessary.
  • When the pasta is coated, gently stir in the avocado.
  • Finish with a pinch of salt to taste.
  • Divide among four bowls or plates, top each with a sprinkle of cheese, and serve immediately.
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Course; Pasta

Penne with a Walnut Sauce

Penne with a Walnut Sauce

This white pesto is creamy and cheesy and nutty, and though inexpensive to make, it feels rather luxurious nonetheless. Be careful not to overprocess this; it should have some texture like a traditional pesto. This recipe makes more pesto than you’ll probably use for a box of pasta, but it keeps for up to 2 days, covered, in your refrigerator. And, like the other takes on pesto in this book ( this is delicious on toast, as a dip, or in any number of the dishes in which you’d use a traditional pesto.
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Equipment

  • Food processor

Ingredients

Serves 6

Instructions

  • In a food processor or blender, pulse together the walnuts, garlic, bread crumbs, ricotta, milk, and a pinch of marjoram.
  • On low speed, slowly drizzle in the olive oil, 1 tablespoon at a time, until incorporated.
  • Gently pulse in the Parmigiano-Reggiano and season with salt and pepper to taste.
  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
  • Once boiling, add salt to taste.
  • Add the penne and cook according to the package instructions until al dente.
  • Set aside 1 cup of the pasta water.
  • Drain the penne and transfer it to a large bowl.
  • Slowly add the pesto and stir until the pasta is well coated, using pasta water to thin out the sauce as necessary.
  • You likely won’t use all of the pesto: a small amount goes a long way.
  • Divide among six bowls or plates, top with the marjoram leaves, and serve.
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Course; Nuts / Pasta / Sauce

Spaghetti Soffritto

Spaghetti Soffritto

Slowly cooked, caramelized onions with fresh summer tomatoes and a touch of smoked pimentón are the classic flavors of a Spanish-style sofrito. It was an easy next step to treat the combination as a red sauce for pasta, hence this Spaghetti “Soffritto.” Though this sauce is delicious on day one, it makes for even better leftovers. Consider doubling the recipe as it will keep in your refrigerator, covered in a layer of olive oil, for up to 2 weeks.
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Ingredients

Serves 4

Instructions

  • Cut the tomatoes in half horizontally.
  • Using the large side of a box grater, grate the cut side of each tomato into a large bowl, discarding the skins.
  • In a large pot on low heat, combine the olive oil, sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, the bay leaf, and the onions, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions start to lightly brown, about 40 minutes.
  • Add the smoked paprika and garlic and stir to combine.
  • Stir in the tomatoes and continue simmering until the sauce reduces and the oil separates, about 25 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil on high heat.
  • Once boiling, add salt to taste.
  • Add the spaghetti and follow the instructions on the package to cook to al dente, setting aside 1 cup of the pasta water.
  • Add the spaghetti to the sauce along with 2 tablespoons of the pasta water.
  • Stir to coat, adding more pasta water to thin out the sauce if necessary.
  • To serve, divide the pasta among four bowls or plates and top with Parmigiano-Reggiano to taste.
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Course; Pasta

Lamb Bolognese with Tagliatelle

Lamb Bolognese with Tagliatelle

This Bolognese uses the fat of the pork to balance the leanness of the lamb while keeping the lamb’s distinct flavor. I love the sound of this sauce cooking: the light pop a single bubble of steam makes as it escapes every 15 seconds or so. It’s the sound of a low simmer; the sound of an incredibly delicious slow-cooked sauce sitting on the stove. Be sure to use a large pot, as this recipe makes more than you’ll likely need, but it freezes exceptionally well stored in an airtight container for up to 1 month.
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Ingredients

Instructions

  • It helps to know: Give yourself some extra time with this one.
  • It’s simple to make, but it sits on the stove (with minimal stirring involved) for 3 to 3½ hours.
  • Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat.
  • Add the carrot, onion, celery, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.
  • Add the garlic and continue to cook until the vegetables have softened, about 5 minutes more.
  • Add the lamb and pork and use a wooden spoon to break up the meat into smaller pieces.
  • Continue to stir and break up the meat until it no longer looks raw, about 15 minutes.
  • Add the milk to deglaze (see this page) and turn the heat to high.
  • Cook, stirring occasionally, until the milk evaporates, about 5 minutes.
  • Add the white wine and pepper and continue stirring occasionally until the wine has evaporated, about 5 minutes.
  • Pour the cans of tomatoes into a large bowl.
  • Squeeze the tomato chunks with your hands to break them apart.
  • Add the crushed tomatoes and their juices to the pot and stir to combine.
  • Turn the heat to low and cover your pot with the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape.
  • Gently simmer until the sauce thickens considerably, 3 to 3½ hours, lifting the lid occasionally to stir.
  • Taste and adjust the salt and pepper levels to your liking.
  • Grate in the nutmeg using a spice grater or Microplane until you’ve used about one-quarter of the nutmeg.
  • Stir to combine.
  • I love this addition, but ground nutmeg (or sawdust, as I like to call it) is not an acceptable substitute.
  • If you don’t have a whole nutmeg to freshly grate, just leave it out.
  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil on high heat.
  • Once boiling, add salt to taste.
  • Add the tagliatelle and follow the instructions on the package to cook to al dente.
  • Divide the pasta among bowls or plates.
  • Top with the Bolognese and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
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Course; Lamb / Pasta

Orecchiette & Broccoli alla Romana

Orecchiette & Broccoli alla Romana

Typically the objective when cooking broccoli is to ensure that the florets remain intact and retain their vibrant green color. I love this recipe because it breaks those rules: both the broccoli head and stems are roughly chopped and slowly simmered until they turn an olive green. In many ways it reminds me of how green beans are often cooked in the Deep South: thrown in a pot with bacon and cooked until they’re nearly unrecognizable and super-delicious. This slow-cooked broccoli combined with red pepper flakes, garlic, and anchovies—three very strong flavors—make this vegetable shine.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

Instructions

  • In a fine-mesh strainer, rinse the anchovies and capers with cold water, then soak them covered with cold water in a small bowl for 10 minutes to remove their salt.
  • Drain, coarsely chop, and set aside.
  • Meanwhile, to prepare the broccoli, cut off and peel the thick stems.
  • Coarsely chop both the heads and the stems.
  • In a large pot on medium heat, combine the broccoli, olive oil, garlic, and a generous pinch of salt.
  • Cover the pot with the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape.
  • Cook, stirring occasionally, until the broccoli is soft, 10 to 12 minutes.
  • When the broccoli is completely soft, turn the heat to low and add ½ cup water, the anchovies, capers, and a healthy pinch each of salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes to the pot.
  • Cook until the broccoli has broken down to a sauce and turned an olive green, about 20 minutes more.
  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil on high heat.
  • Once boiling, add salt to taste.
  • Add the pasta and follow the instructions on the package to cook until just before al dente, setting aside a cup of the pasta water before draining.
  • Ladle 2 tablespoons of the pasta water into the pot with the broccoli and stir, keeping the heat on medium.
  • Drain the pasta and stir it directly into the pot with the broccoli.
  • Add the reserved pasta water to thin out as necessary.
  • Top with the Pecorino Romano and serve immediately.
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Course; Pasta

Bucatini with Canned Sardines & Capers

Bucatini with Canned Sardines & Capers

I can wax poetic about canned sardines. It all started when I was living on a beginning cook’s wage: a baguette, a big slab of butter, and a couple of sardines straight out of the can functioned as a meal on a regular basis. What started as a tartine of sustenance became an appreciation of the sardine’s cultural significance, its health benefits, and the ease of having them on hand at all times in my pantry. To me, sardines and butter is an eye-roll-to-the-back-of-the-head flavor. I won’t get into the cult of vintage sardines, and the connoisseurs who age certain brands like wine—often for years, to add a complexity of flavor. I’ll just say this: they’re a delicacy in a $2.00 can.
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Ingredients

Serves 4

  • 6 tablespoons salt-packed capers
  • 4 tablespoon dried bread crumbs
  • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Salt
  • 2 3.75-ounce cans sardines packed in olive oil, drained
  • 1 clove garlic finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • Red pepper flakes
  • Espelette pepper or hot paprika
  • 12 ounces bucatini bigoli, or spaghetti
  • Fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves for garnish optional

Instructions

  • In a fine-mesh strainer, rinse the capers with cold water, then soak them covered with cold water in a small bowl for 10 minutes to remove their salt.
  • Drain and set aside.
  • Meanwhile, in a medium pan on low heat, fry the bread crumbs with ¼ cup of the olive oil, stirring frequently until they turn golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes.
  • Drain using a fine-mesh strainer and spread onto a paper towel.
  • Set aside.
  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil on high heat.
  • Once boiling, add salt to taste.
  • In a large bowl, combine the sardines, capers, garlic, the remaining ¼ cup olive oil, the lemon juice, and a pinch each of red pepper flakes, espelette pepper, and salt.
  • Stir using a fork to coarsely break up the sardines.
  • Add the bucatini to the salted water and cook to al dente, according to the package instructions.
  • While the pasta is cooking, add 3 tablespoons of the pasta water to the sardine mixture and stir to combine.
  • Drain the pasta and stir it into the bowl with the sardine mixture.
  • Stir aggressively to finish breaking up the sardines and coat the pasta evenly.
  • The pasta’s starch will give the sauce a creamy consistency.
  • Divide among four bowls.
  • Top with the toasted bread crumbs and parsley and serve immediately.
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Course; Fish / Pasta

Toasted Baguette with Dark Chocolate, Olive Oil & Sea Salt

Toasted Baguette with Dark Chocolate, Olive Oil & Sea Salt

I once read that the great Catalan chef Ferran Adrià makes this simple toast for an afternoon snack. I’ve made it myself ever since to enjoy with a cup of coffee (see this page) in the morning or as a late-night treat. I recommend using the best dark chocolate you can afford and not letting it melt too much in the oven; you want to maintain its shape. It’s perfection.
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Ingredients

Serves 4

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven or toaster oven to broil.
  • Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.
  • Slice the chocolate bars into squares small enough to fit on top of the bread slices.
  • Arrange the baguette slices in a single layer on the baking sheet.
  • Top each slice with a piece of dark chocolate.
  • Broil until the chocolate is completely soft.
  • The amount of time this takes will vary greatly depending on your chocolate—test the center with your finger to see if it has melted.
  • Once the chocolate has melted, finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a generous sprinkling of flaky salt over the top.
  • Serve.
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Course; Bread / Chocolate

Mozzarella Crostini with Lemon & Tomato

Mozzarella Crostini with Lemon & Tomato

This is a quick and easy toast for any time of day, from late at night to early morning. It’s essentially the vegetarian version of the Pan con Tomate with Ham (this page), using lemony, oily mozzarella cheese instead of pork. It’s hard to beat ham, but this fresh, citrusy mozzarella toast comes pretty damn close.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

  • About 8 ounces fresh mozzarella cut into ½-inch rounds
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • Zest and juice of 1 Meyer lemon
  • 1 loaf sourdough cut into ¾-inch slices
  • 1 clove garlic halved
  • 1 large heirloom tomato halved
  • Flaky sea salt

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 400°F.
  • Set the mozzarella slices in a small bowl.
  • Top with a large glug of olive oil and the lemon zest and juice.
  • Let the cheese marinate at room temperature for 15 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, arrange the bread slices in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast until they’ve firmed but haven’t browned, about 2 minutes.
  • Rub the garlic on the sliced bread.
  • Just a bit—you don’t want the garlic to overpower the mozzarella and tomato.
  • Rub the cut sides of the tomato along the bread, allowing the juices to rehydrate it.
  • Discard any remaining tomato and spread the mozzarella slices on top of the bread.
  • Drizzle with the marinade and top with a pinch of flaky sea salt.
  • Serve immediately.
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Course; Cheese / Sandwiches

Herbed Goat Cheese & Chorizo Tartine with Honey

Herbed Goat Cheese & Chorizo Tartine with Honey

Herbed goat cheese and spicy, salty chorizo on bread needs little introduction, but you may be wondering about the honey. While it may seem odd, the sweetness of the honey brings this toast together in a very fortunate way: sweet, spicy, savory, and addictive.
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Ingredients

Serves 6 to 8

Instructions

  • In a medium bowl, stir together the cheese, herbs, and lemon zest and juice until combined.
  • Add the cream, olive oil, and a pinch each of salt and pepper.
  • Cover and chill in your refrigerator for at least 1 hour to allow the herbs to infuse the cheese.
  • Meanwhile, in a medium pan on medium heat, add the chorizo and stir with a wooden spoon to break up the meat until it’s cooked through, about 10 minutes.
  • Set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Preheat your oven or toaster oven to broil.
  • When you’re ready to serve, very lightly brush the baguette slices with olive oil and toast them on a baking sheet in your oven or toaster oven until golden brown, about 1 minute per side.
  • Spread the herbed goat cheese generously over each slice of toasted bread.
  • Use a large spoon to scoop and pile on the chorizo.
  • Finish with a drizzle of honey.
  • Serve immediately, with plenty of napkins on the side.
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Course; Cheese / Sandwich toppings