Bucatini with Canned Sardines & Capers

Bucatini with Canned Sardines & Capers

I can wax poetic about canned sardines. It all started when I was living on a beginning cook’s wage: a baguette, a big slab of butter, and a couple of sardines straight out of the can functioned as a meal on a regular basis. What started as a tartine of sustenance became an appreciation of the sardine’s cultural significance, its health benefits, and the ease of having them on hand at all times in my pantry. To me, sardines and butter is an eye-roll-to-the-back-of-the-head flavor. I won’t get into the cult of vintage sardines, and the connoisseurs who age certain brands like wine—often for years, to add a complexity of flavor. I’ll just say this: they’re a delicacy in a $2.00 can.
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Ingredients

Serves 4

  • 6 tablespoons salt-packed capers
  • 4 tablespoon dried bread crumbs
  • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Salt
  • 2 3.75-ounce cans sardines packed in olive oil, drained
  • 1 clove garlic finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • Red pepper flakes
  • Espelette pepper or hot paprika
  • 12 ounces bucatini bigoli, or spaghetti
  • Fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves for garnish optional

Instructions

  • In a fine-mesh strainer, rinse the capers with cold water, then soak them covered with cold water in a small bowl for 10 minutes to remove their salt.
  • Drain and set aside.
  • Meanwhile, in a medium pan on low heat, fry the bread crumbs with ¼ cup of the olive oil, stirring frequently until they turn golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes.
  • Drain using a fine-mesh strainer and spread onto a paper towel.
  • Set aside.
  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil on high heat.
  • Once boiling, add salt to taste.
  • In a large bowl, combine the sardines, capers, garlic, the remaining ¼ cup olive oil, the lemon juice, and a pinch each of red pepper flakes, espelette pepper, and salt.
  • Stir using a fork to coarsely break up the sardines.
  • Add the bucatini to the salted water and cook to al dente, according to the package instructions.
  • While the pasta is cooking, add 3 tablespoons of the pasta water to the sardine mixture and stir to combine.
  • Drain the pasta and stir it into the bowl with the sardine mixture.
  • Stir aggressively to finish breaking up the sardines and coat the pasta evenly.
  • The pasta’s starch will give the sauce a creamy consistency.
  • Divide among four bowls.
  • Top with the toasted bread crumbs and parsley and serve immediately.
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Course; Fish / Pasta

Toasted Baguette with Dark Chocolate, Olive Oil & Sea Salt

Toasted Baguette with Dark Chocolate, Olive Oil & Sea Salt

I once read that the great Catalan chef Ferran Adrià makes this simple toast for an afternoon snack. I’ve made it myself ever since to enjoy with a cup of coffee (see this page) in the morning or as a late-night treat. I recommend using the best dark chocolate you can afford and not letting it melt too much in the oven; you want to maintain its shape. It’s perfection.
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Ingredients

Serves 4

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven or toaster oven to broil.
  • Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.
  • Slice the chocolate bars into squares small enough to fit on top of the bread slices.
  • Arrange the baguette slices in a single layer on the baking sheet.
  • Top each slice with a piece of dark chocolate.
  • Broil until the chocolate is completely soft.
  • The amount of time this takes will vary greatly depending on your chocolate—test the center with your finger to see if it has melted.
  • Once the chocolate has melted, finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a generous sprinkling of flaky salt over the top.
  • Serve.
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Course; Bread / Chocolate

Mozzarella Crostini with Lemon & Tomato

Mozzarella Crostini with Lemon & Tomato

This is a quick and easy toast for any time of day, from late at night to early morning. It’s essentially the vegetarian version of the Pan con Tomate with Ham (this page), using lemony, oily mozzarella cheese instead of pork. It’s hard to beat ham, but this fresh, citrusy mozzarella toast comes pretty damn close.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

  • About 8 ounces fresh mozzarella cut into ½-inch rounds
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • Zest and juice of 1 Meyer lemon
  • 1 loaf sourdough cut into ¾-inch slices
  • 1 clove garlic halved
  • 1 large heirloom tomato halved
  • Flaky sea salt

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 400°F.
  • Set the mozzarella slices in a small bowl.
  • Top with a large glug of olive oil and the lemon zest and juice.
  • Let the cheese marinate at room temperature for 15 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, arrange the bread slices in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast until they’ve firmed but haven’t browned, about 2 minutes.
  • Rub the garlic on the sliced bread.
  • Just a bit—you don’t want the garlic to overpower the mozzarella and tomato.
  • Rub the cut sides of the tomato along the bread, allowing the juices to rehydrate it.
  • Discard any remaining tomato and spread the mozzarella slices on top of the bread.
  • Drizzle with the marinade and top with a pinch of flaky sea salt.
  • Serve immediately.
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Course; Cheese / Sandwiches

Herbed Goat Cheese & Chorizo Tartine with Honey

Herbed Goat Cheese & Chorizo Tartine with Honey

Herbed goat cheese and spicy, salty chorizo on bread needs little introduction, but you may be wondering about the honey. While it may seem odd, the sweetness of the honey brings this toast together in a very fortunate way: sweet, spicy, savory, and addictive.
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Ingredients

Serves 6 to 8

Instructions

  • In a medium bowl, stir together the cheese, herbs, and lemon zest and juice until combined.
  • Add the cream, olive oil, and a pinch each of salt and pepper.
  • Cover and chill in your refrigerator for at least 1 hour to allow the herbs to infuse the cheese.
  • Meanwhile, in a medium pan on medium heat, add the chorizo and stir with a wooden spoon to break up the meat until it’s cooked through, about 10 minutes.
  • Set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Preheat your oven or toaster oven to broil.
  • When you’re ready to serve, very lightly brush the baguette slices with olive oil and toast them on a baking sheet in your oven or toaster oven until golden brown, about 1 minute per side.
  • Spread the herbed goat cheese generously over each slice of toasted bread.
  • Use a large spoon to scoop and pile on the chorizo.
  • Finish with a drizzle of honey.
  • Serve immediately, with plenty of napkins on the side.
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Pan con Tomate with Ham

Pan con Tomate with Ham

This simple dish has become a staple of Pink Palace parties, and was the first recipe I wrote down when I started planning this cookbook. Every year since I first encountered Pan con Tomate in Spain, I’ve looked forward to the arrival of the first “best” tomatoes of summer so I can serve this toast. That said, serve may be an overstatement: I simply lay out the components and let my friends build their toasts as they like. Adding a paper-thin slice of ham may be gilding the lily, but I’ll take my chances.
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Ingredients

Serves 6 to 8

  • 1 loaf day-old sourdough cut into 1-inch slices
  • 1 clove garlic halved
  • 3 large ripe heirloom tomatoes halved
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • Flaky sea salt
  • About 4 ounces thinly sliced ham jamón Serrano, prosciutto, or any cured pork

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 400°F.
  • Arrange the bread slices in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast until they’ve firmed but haven’t browned, about 2 minutes.
  • Rub the garlic halves on one side of each slice, but be careful not to go overboard—I let my guests serve themselves, telling them “just a kiss” of garlic.
  • Rub the cut side of the tomato along the slices, allowing the juices to rehydrate them; discard the tomato.
  • Top with a drizzle of olive oil, a healthy pinch of flaky sea salt, and thinly sliced ham.
  • Eat with your hands, with your drink set somewhere nearby, no plate necessary.
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Course; Sandwiches

Pan Bagnat

Pan Bagnat

This is one of my favorite sandwiches ever. I love the idea of softening day-old bread with the sandwich ingredients’ juices. This is good for lunch, yes, but even better when it’s waiting in your refrigerator at the end of a long day or night.
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Ingredients

  • Serves 2 to 4
  • 2 anchovy fillets salt-packed or oil-packed
  • 1 small clove garlic minced
  • ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 small cucumber thinly sliced
  • 1 large crusty round baguette or 2 to 4 ciabatta rolls
  • ½ small red onion thinly sliced
  • 1 handful leaf lettuce torn into bite-size pieces
  • 4 small tomatoes Early Girl or Roma preferred, cut into ¼- to ½-inch slices
  • Salt
  • 5 ounces canned solid tuna packed in oil drained
  • 4 large basil leaves torn into pieces
  • 2 eggs hard-boiled (see this page), peeled, and sliced
  • ½ cup pitted Niçoise olives halved

Instructions

  • If your anchovies are salt-packed, soak them in water for 10 minutes to remove their salt.
  • Drain.
  • Finely chop the anchovy fillets and place them in a large bowl.
  • Whisk in the garlic, mustard, and vinegar to combine.
  • Slowly whisk in the olive oil.
  • Once combined, add the cucumber and stir to coat.
  • Cut the bread roll in half.
  • Remove and discard the soft white center of each side so it resembles a hollow bowling ball.
  • Spread half of the cucumber mixture along the bottom slice of bread.
  • Top with the red onion, lettuce, tomatoes, and a pinch of salt.
  • Spread the tuna across the surface of the tomatoes.
  • Top with the basil, eggs, and olives.
  • Finish with the remaining cucumbers and a drizzle of the vinaigrette from the bowl.
  • At this point, your sandwich should resemble a precarious tower.
  • Carefully cover the tower with the other half of the bread and wrap the entire sandwich in aluminum foil or plastic wrap.
  • Put the wrapped sandwich in your refrigerator with a weight on top (I use a heavy pan) for 30 minutes.
  • Flip, weight the other side, and let it sit in your refrigerator for another 30 minutes, or up to 12 hours.
  • To serve, cut the sandwich in halves or quarters and enjoy cold or at room temperature.
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Course; Sandwiches

Grilled Cheese

Grilled Cheese

A grilled cheese sandwich is famously a quick and easy lunch, but it makes for an even better late-night snack. I’ve experimented with countless bread and cheese combinations, but the soft texture of melted Gruyère and Taleggio combined with sharp mustard and pickles, finished with a crispy cheese veil takes this sandwich to another level. I like to prepare it ahead of time and leave it in my refrigerator so it’s ready to go after a long night. Use a well-seasoned cast-iron pan or a nonstick pan.
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Ingredients

Makes 1 sandwich

  • Butter softened
  • 2 ¾-inch-thick slices country bread (sourdough preferred, or Manresa Bread’s levain, if you can get it)
  • Dijon mustard
  • 1 cup grated Gruyère cheese plus 1 cup more if making cheese veil
  • 2 small dill pickles thinly sliced
  • 1 ounce Taleggio Robiola, or a similar soft, creamy cheese, cut to the size of 2 pats of butter

Instructions

  • Liberally butter one side of each slice of bread.
  • This will be the outside.
  • Flip the bread over and spread a thin layer of Dijon on one half (or both, if you’re a mustard person).
  • On the other half, layer 1 cup of the Gruyère, the pickles, and the Taleggio.
  • Push the two halves together with the butter sides facing out to make a sandwich.
  • Wrap the entire sandwich in plastic wrap and put in your refrigerator with something heavy on top (I use a heavy plate) for 30 minutes, or up to 12 hours, to compress.
  • When you’re ready to serve, place the sandwich in a medium pan on medium heat.
  • Place a heavy lid smaller than the pan directly on top of the sandwich.
  • This will put pressure on the sandwich and the gathering steam will melt the cheese.
  • Once the bottom of the sandwich has browned, 5 to 7 minutes, use a wide spatula to flip it and place the lid back on top.
  • When the second side is cooked to golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes more, remove from the pan and set aside.
  • From here, you can either eat the sandwich or make the cheese veil.
  • The veil, passed down to me by my business partner Avery Ruzicka, is optional, but well worth the extra time.
  • Turn the heat to low and spread the remaining 1 cup of Gruyère directly onto the pan, just wide enough to cover the surface of the sandwich.
  • The cheese will bubble up, melt, and start to turn brown like a pancake.
  • When the cheese has begun to brown in the middle, set the sandwich in the center.
  • Use a spatula to scrape the cheese up along the sides of the bread.
  • Loosen the sandwich from the bottom of the pan, then flip it onto a plate so the cheese veil is on top.
  • Slice the sandwich in half and serve.
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Course; Cheese / Sandwiches

Cacio e Pepe

Cacio e Pepe

Since I always keep pasta and cheese on hand, this is my standard late-night meal enjoyed with a vibrant, fun red wine or a light beer. My advice regarding this classic dish is that cacio e pepe means “cheese and pepper”; in other words, pepper is a main ingredient. Don’t take the pepper lightly—even the coarsest setting on your pepper mill will be too fine.
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Ingredients

  • Serves 4
  • Salt
  • 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
  • 1 pound bucatini bigoli, or spaghetti
  • 3 cups finely grated Pecorino Romano
  • 1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions

  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil on high heat.
  • Once the water is boiling, add salt to taste.
  • Meanwhile, coarsely crush the peppercorns using a mortar and pestle.
  • If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, set the peppercorns on a sturdy cutting board.
  • Using the bottom edge of a pot, forcefully press down and forward on the peppercorns until each corn is crushed.
  • Don’t be afraid to be aggressive.
  • Both methods will yield peppercorns of all different sizes: a necessary quality of any good cacio e pepe.
  • Cook the pasta in the salted water according to the package directions to just before al dente.
  • It should be slightly underdone, as the pasta will continue to cook after it’s drained.
  • While the pasta is boiling, stir the cheeses together in a large bowl until combined.
  • Ladle ½ cup of the boiling pasta water into the cheese and stir gently to form a paste.
  • Meanwhile, in a pot large enough to hold the pasta on low heat, stir together the olive oil and crushed peppercorns.
  • Once fragrant, add 2 tablespoons of the boiling pasta water and stir to combine.
  • Reserve 1 cup of the pasta water and set aside.
  • Drain the pasta and use tongs to gradually add the pasta to the pot with the olive oil and peppercorns.
  • Stir vigorously while you add the pasta until it’s coated in the oil and pepper.
  • Add the cheese paste and stir, keeping the heat on low, until the pasta is cooked to al dente and the sauce is creamy, 1 to 2 minutes.
  • Add the reserved pasta water to thin out as necessary.
  • Add a pinch of salt to taste, but be conservative: the pasta will be salty from its cooking water and the natural saltiness of the cheeses.
  • Serve.
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Course; Cheese

Savory & Sweet Omelet Soufflés

Savory & Sweet Omelet Soufflés

The following are considered soufflés because you whisk the egg whites, yielding fun, jiggly omelets that I like to make for a lazy brunch. Ignore your instincts to cook these until completely dry in the center. You want the omelets to be soft and almost flowing in the middle—just like a soufflé.
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Ingredients

Serves 2

Savory

  • 4 eggs at room temperature
  • ¼ cup finely grated Pecorino Romano plus more for garnish
  • Freshly ground black pepper I like a lot
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 tablespoon finely minced chives plus more for garnish
  • 1 tablespoon butter

Sweet

Instructions

Savory

  • Divide the egg yolks and whites into separate bowls.
  • Whisk the Pecorino Romano and black pepper into the egg yolks until the yolks have broken and combined with the cheese.
  • Using a hand whisk, beat the egg whites until they become frothy and begin to form soft peaks.
  • In other words, when you lift the whisk up, the whites hold a peak for a second or two, but quickly melt back into themselves.
  • Just before you’re ready to cook the omelet, stir the salt into the yolks.
  • Resist any temptation to add the salt earlier or it will cook them.
  • Using a spoon, gently fold the egg yolk and cheese mixture into the egg whites and stir until incorporated—don’t use a whisk or you risk overbeating the eggs!
  • Stir in the chives.
  • In an 8- to 10-inch pan on medium-low heat, add the butter, and tilt the pan to coat the bottom as the butter melts.
  • Once the butter begins to sizzle, pour in the egg mixture and let it sit without agitating the pan.
  • When the eggs begin to solidify on the outside but are still uncooked in the center, 2 to 3 minutes, cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and let the mixture sit until the center is cooked but not dry, about 2 minutes more (I think of this as the omelet version of medium rare).
  • Remove the lid and carefully slide the omelet halfway out of the pan onto a plate so the bottom side is still facing down.
  • Tilt the pan upside down to fold the second half onto itself to make an omelet.
  • Top with your desired amount of Pecorino Romano and chives.
  • Slice in half and serve.

Sweet

  • Divide the egg yolks and whites into separate bowls.
  • Gently stir the granulated sugar into the egg yolks until the yolks have broken and combined with the sugar.
  • In a separate bowl, stir together the honey and crème fraîche until combined.
  • Set aside.
  • Using a hand whisk, beat the egg whites until they become frothy and begin to form soft peaks.
  • In other words, when you lift the whisk up, the whites hold a peak for a second or two, but quickly melt back into themselves.
  • Just before you’re ready to cook the omelet, stir the salt into the yolks.
  • Resist any temptation to add the salt earlier or it will cook the yolks.
  • Using a spoon, gently fold the egg yolks into the egg whites until incorporated—don’t use a whisk or you risk overbeating the eggs!
  • In an 8- to 10-inch pan on medium-low heat, add the butter, and tilt the pan to coat the bottom as the butter melts.
  • Once the butter begins to sizzle, pour in the egg mixture and let it sit without agitating the pan.
  • When the eggs begin to solidify on the outside but are still uncooked in the center, 2 to 3 minutes, cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and let the mixture sit until the center is cooked but not dry, about 2 minutes more (I think of this as the omelet version of medium rare).
  • Remove the lid and spread the crème fraîche and honey mixture over the top—or what will become the omelet’s center.
  • Carefully slide the omelet halfway out of the pan so the bottom side is still facing down.
  • Tilt the pan upside down to fold the second half onto itself to make an omelet.
  • Top the omelet with jam, drizzle with any remaining crème fraîche and honey, and use a duster or fine-mesh strainer to sprinkle the top with a few healthy pinches of confectioners’ sugar.
  • Slice in half and serve.
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Course; Eggs

Crispy Fried Eggs

Crispy Fried Eggs

Use a neutral, inexpensive oil for this technique: it’s a bourgeois tragedy to use nice oil to fry an egg. I like this method because it gives you a crispy egg with a runny yolk, and, best of all, you never have to worry about it sticking to the pan. Make sure all of your cooking utensils are dry and the egg is at room temperature or the hot oil will sputter!
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Ingredients

WITH CAPERS, OLIVES & BREAD CRUMBS

WITH GREEN GARLIC & GREEN ONIONS

Instructions

To serve with Capers, Olives & Bread Crumbs: Soak the capers covered with cold water in a small bowl for 10 minutes to remove their salt.

  • Drain, coarsely chop, and set aside.
  • In a small pan on low heat, stir together the olive oil and bread crumbs.
  • Toast, stirring often to prevent the bread crumbs from burning.
  • When they begin to turn golden brown, add the olives, capers, and thyme.
  • Continue to stir on low heat until warmed through and fragrant, about 1 minute.
  • Turn off the heat and deglaze the pan by stirring in the red wine vinegar.
  • Add a pinch of salt and a twist of pepper.
  • Serve over the eggs (see below) and potatoes, or store the mixture, covered, in your refrigerator for up to 3 days and serve it as a cold condiment.

To serve with Green Garlic & Green Onions: In a small pan on high heat, heat the sunflower oil.

  • Meanwhile, stir together the green onions and green garlic in a large bowl capable of holding high heat.
  • When the oil begins to smoke around the sides of the pan, carefully pour it over the allium mixture.
  • The oil will cook the green onions and green garlic as it cools.
  • Stir in the soy sauce, rice vinegar, and espelette pepper and let the mixture cool to room temperature while you prepare the eggs.
  • Serve over the eggs (see below) and potatoes, or store the mixture, covered, in your refrigerator for up to 3 days and serve it as a cold condiment.
  • To make the eggs: Set a small pan on high heat with enough sunflower oil to cover the bottom entirely (about ½ cup).
  • Crack one egg into a small bowl or glass so you can get close enough to the pan to pour in the egg without splashing hot oil.
  • When the oil is smoking (make sure your fan is on high!), gently pour the egg into the pan.
  • Wait a few seconds as the egg bubbles and sputters.
  • Baste the egg by ladling the hot oil over the top with a large spoon.
  • When the egg is outlined by a crispy, golden brown perimeter and its white is no longer runny, 2 to 3 minutes, remove it from the pan using a slotted spoon.
  • Set the egg aside on a paper towel while you cook the remaining eggs, replenishing the oil as necessary.
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Course; Eggs