Recipes

Roast Fig & Pancetta Salad with Goat Cheese

Roast Fig & Pancetta Salad with Goat Cheese

This cooked fruit and lettuce salad is sweet and salty and creamy and delicious. It goes well with roast or grilled meat in the summertime, or, since it’s fairly filling by itself, alongside a simple arugula salad with a classic dressing for a double-salad kind of night.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 375°F.
  • Slice the radicchio in half and remove and discard its core.
  • Vertically slice each half into ½-inch slices.
  • Place the radicchio in a bowl and toss with the olive oil, vinegar, and a pinch each of salt and pepper until combined.
  • Spread the radicchio evenly on the bottom of an ovenproof casserole dish large enough to hold all of the figs in a single layer.
  • Set aside.
  • Wrap the figs in the pancetta slices, then set them on top of the radicchio.
  • Bake until the pancetta begins to crisp, 9 to 11 minutes.
  • Remove the dish from your oven and set the goat cheese slices on top of each fig.
  • Return the dish to your oven and bake until the cheese has softened and warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes.
  • Serve immediately.
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Course; Cheese / Salad

Petit Aioli with Canned Tuna

Petit Aioli with Canned Tuna

I love this dish because it’s a fresh, light way to start a meal, but also because it’s pretty: the olives, rainbow carrots, and varying vegetables arrange themselves into interesting shapes and pockets to show off their natural vibrancy. It’s also an easy way to serve a lot of people, and it can be made in advance. Serve this on a big platter family style, ideally outdoors, with a bottle or two of rosé.
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Ingredients

Serves 6

Instructions

  • Cover the potatoes in cold water in a large pot.
  • Add the salt and turn the heat to medium.
  • Simmer, uncovered, until the potatoes are soft, about 30 minutes.
  • Drain and let the potatoes cool, setting one aside for the aioli.
  • Once cooled to room temperature, cut them in half lengthwise.
  • Meanwhile, blanch the carrots and fennel.
  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil on high heat and set a large bowl of cold water next to your stove.
  • Once boiling, add a pinch of salt.
  • Dunk the carrots and fennel in the boiling water for 30 seconds, then use a large slotted spoon to immediately plunge them into the cold water.
  • The cold water stops the vegetables from cooking and keeps their bright, raw color.
  • Leave the carrots whole and quarter the fennel.
  • Set aside.
  • Cook the garlic in the boiling water for 2 minutes.
  • Drain and run cold water over the garlic to halt the cooking process.
  • Set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise, then in half lengthwise again to make wedges.
  • Cut the bell pepper into quarters.
  • Discard the zucchini’s end, cut it into 2-inch lengths, then cut the pieces into quarters.
  • Set aside.
  • Peel the skin from the reserved fingerling potato (don’t use a warm potato or it will cook the egg).
  • Using a mortar and pestle, smash the softened garlic to form a paste.
  • (If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, use a hand whisk, but finely chop the softened garlic and smash the cooked potato with a fork before you begin.
  • ) Add the potato and continue to smash until combined.
  • Add the egg yolk and continue to smash and stir.
  • Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, continuing to stir aggressively.
  • Add a few drops at a time at first, being careful not to add too much oil at once or the sauce will break.
  • When the sauce becomes too thick to stir, add a few drops of cold water.
  • Continue with this process, adding cold water as necessary to thin, until all of the oil has been incorporated.
  • Season with salt to taste, and then stir in the lemon juice.
  • To serve, arrange the tomatoes, vegetables, eggs, and olives attractively in a large bowl or serving dish.
  • Sometimes I layer the vegetables randomly, sometimes I group like things together.
  • Get creative and have fun.
  • Use your hands to break up the tuna into large pieces and evenly spread it on top of the vegetables.
  • Very lightly salt and pepper the entire dish.
  • Serve alongside small bowls of the aioli and your best olive oil.
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Course; Fish

A Riviera Salad

A Riviera Salad

The Niçoise salad comes with its own baggage: people have a lot of opinions about what should (and shouldn’t) be included. This is my take, which veers from tradition but keeps the summer flavors of the Riviera that have made the Niçoise such a classic.
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Ingredients

Instructions

  • Spread the tomatoes on a plate in a single layer.
  • Sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and set aside for at least 30 minutes as you prepare the rest of the ingredients.
  • Cover the potatoes with cold water in a large pot.
  • Add 1 tablespoon salt and turn the heat to medium.
  • Simmer, uncovered, until the potatoes are soft, about 20 minutes.
  • Drain and set aside to cool.
  • Once cool, cut them in half lengthwise.
  • Blanch the fava beans by dunking them in boiling water for 30 seconds.
  • Drain and run cold water over them to stop the cooking process.
  • Pop the beans out of their pod and use a knife to peel and discard the outer skin.
  • Remove the outer leaves from the lettuce and trim the very bottom stem, being careful not to trim off too much or they’ll break apart.
  • Cut each head in half lengthwise, then in half lengthwise once more to make wedges.
  • Tear half of the basil leaves into bite-size pieces.
  • To assemble the salad, rub the cut side of the garlic clove over your serving platter’s surface.
  • Scatter the Little Gems, fingerlings, fava beans, bell peppers, onion, cucumbers, and olives over the platter, finding space in all the gaps.
  • Add the tuna, breaking it into bite-size pieces.
  • Top with the eggs, torn basil, the tomatoes, and a healthy pinch of black pepper.
  • Cover the platter with plastic wrap and chill in your refrigerator for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 hours.
  • Finely chop the remaining basil leaves.
  • In a small bowl, whisk the basil into the olive oil, cover, and chill in your refrigerator along with the salad.
  • Just before serving, drizzle with the dressing and a pinch of salt.
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Course; Salad

Corn Cakes with Smoked Salmon

Corn Cakes with Smoked Salmon

These corn crêpes are savory meets sweet meets breakfast meets good-all-day-long—you really can’t go wrong with smoked fish on a pancake.
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Ingredients

Instructions

  • It helps to know: This recipe requires a 4- to 5-inch pan (ideally, a crêpe pan) and a blender.
  • Preheat your oven to 375°F.
  • In a small bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche and Dijon mustard.
  • Set aside.
  • In a large bowl, whisk the eggs into the flour.
  • Whisk in the cream and Tabasco until combined.
  • Stir in the corn and a couple pinches of salt.
  • Add the mixture to a blender and blend minimally on low speed, ensuring some whole kernels remain.
  • In a small ovenproof pan on medium heat, warm about 1 tablespoon of the butter, tilting to coat the pan as it melts.
  • Pour enough batter into the pan so it reaches the edges and makes a ¾-inch-thick pancake.
  • Let it sit until the batter starts to bubble around the edges.
  • Once bubbling, put the pan in your oven and bake until the pancake is cooked through, about 4 minutes.
  • Trace a spatula along the edges of the pan to loosen up the pancake’s perimeter.
  • Set a plate on top of the pan, then turn the pan over so the pancake flips onto the plate with the bottom side facing up.
  • Slide the pancake back into the pan, with the bottom side still facing up, and return the pan to the stove on medium heat.
  • Continue cooking until both sides are golden brown, about 4 minutes more.
  • Remove from the pan and set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Repeat with the remaining batter, replenishing the butter as necessary.
  • Top the corn cakes with a dollop of the crème fraîche and Dijon mixture, and some salmon, red onion, and green onions.
  • Serve immediately.
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Course; Cake / Fish

Savory Strawberry Biscuits

Savory Strawberry Biscuits

I’m not sure whether these biscuits should be considered breakfast, lunch, or a snack, but they’re delicious at any time of day. My advice is to work quickly with the dough: it will get more difficult to handle as it warms up. I like a few different combinations for the inside of the biscuit sandwich, but feel free to get creative. Just look for something fatty, something salty, and something sweet—a meat, a cheese, and a jam.
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Ingredients

Makes 9 to 12 sandwiches

BISCUITS

FILLINGS

  • Jam of your choice I like rhubarb, strawberry, or apricot
  • Manchego cheese with prosciutto Gouda with Serrano ham, or Brie with boiled ham

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 450°F.
  • Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and put it in your freezer to chill.
  • Sift the flour into a large bowl to remove any clumps.
  • Sift in the baking powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt and stir to combine.
  • Using the large side of a box grater, grate the frozen butter into the flour mixture.
  • Stir in the lemon zest, then the crème fraîche.
  • Don’t worry—the mixture will be chunky and not dough-like at this point.
  • Stir in the strawberries and begin working the mixture with your hands, pinching and turning as the butter melts and the strawberries burst, until everything eventually comes together to form a dough.
  • Be patient; it will take some time for the butter to melt and may feel for a few minutes like it’s not working.
  • Form the dough into a ball and dust a large work surface and rolling pin with flour.
  • Set the dough on your work surface and use your palm to flatten its top.
  • Dust the dough with more flour, then roll it into a rough square about 1½ inches thick.
  • Cut the dough into 2-inch squares, and space the squares evenly on the prepared baking sheet.
  • Brush the tops of the squares with the melted butter and bake until they’re nicely browned and cooked through, about 22 minutes.
  • Remove the pan from your oven and transfer the biscuits to a wire rack to cool to room temperature.
  • Slice the biscuits in half.
  • Spread the jam on one side and put the cheese on the other.
  • Push a couple of slices of ham into the jam and push the two halves together to make a sandwich.
  • Serve.
  • Pairs well with “I Love What You Do to Me” by Ike & Tina Turner
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Course; Coockies / Biscuit / Fruit

Mushrooms al Horno with Crusty Bread

Mushrooms al Horno with Crusty Bread

These baked (“al horno”) mushrooms are inspired by a Basque dish. The mushrooms kick out their water, which combines with the wine, garlic, vinegar, and herbs to make a very flavorful sauce. This dish is super straightforward (just mix some things together and throw them in your oven); my only advice: don’t soak the mushrooms in water to clean them or they’ll soak up too much liquid and ruin the rich, mushroomy sauce.
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Ingredients

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 400°F.
  • Clean the mushrooms with a damp towel and cut them into bite-size pieces.
  • Put the mushrooms in a large bowl and stir in the garlic, parsley, white wine, olive oil, and two healthy pinches of salt until combined.
  • Pour the mixture into a baking dish large enough to hold the mushrooms in a single layer and bake for 30 minutes.
  • Remove the dish from your oven and stir in the sherry vinegar.
  • Divide the toasted bread among serving plates.
  • Spoon the mushrooms and their juices over the bread and serve.
  • Pairs well with “Stolen Moments” by Oliver Nelson
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Course; Side Dish

Guacamole with Pomegranate

Guacamole with Pomegranate

Everyone has a guacamole recipe, especially in California. This is mine
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Ingredients

  • Serves 4 to 6
  • 3 ripe avocados
  • Juice of 3 or 4 limes
  • 1 small red onion quartered and thinly sliced
  • ½ clove garlic finely chopped
  • 2 serrano chiles seeded and finely minced
  • 1 jalapeño seeded and finely minced
  • ½ teaspoon smoked pimento powder or other smoked chile powder
  • 1 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves finely chopped
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon pomegranate syrup
  • 1 teaspoon black sesame seeds toasted
  • Seeds of 1 small pomegranate

Instructions

  • Halve the avocados, remove their pits (save one for storage!
  • ), and scoop the flesh into a large bowl.
  • Add the juice from 3 limes along with the onion, garlic, serrano chiles, jalapeño, pimento powder, cilantro, and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper.
  • Mash with a fork until the ingredients form a rough paste but still retain some texture.
  • Guacamole with chunks and different textures is much more interesting, so make sure not to over-mash the avocados.
  • Taste and adjust the salt and lime levels, if necessary.
  • Place in your refrigerator for 30 minutes to allow the onion to soften.
  • Scoop the guacamole into your serving bowl.
  • Drizzle with the pomegranate syrup, and sprinkle with the sesame and pomegranate seeds to finish.
  • Serve immediately, or store covered for up to 1 day in your refrigerator with the avocado pit half submerged in the dip to prevent it from oxidizing.
  • Pairs well with “Alegría” by Elia y Elizabeth
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Course; Sauce

Salmon Rillettes

Salmon Rillettes

I learned this recipe many years ago and I revisit it often because I still adore it. The combination of smoked salmon and crudo makes it sing. It’s also incredibly easy to prepare ahead of time and store in your refrigerator, making it a perfect low-stress small plate for your table.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

  • 5 ounces sushi-grade salmon
  • ¼ cup butter softened
  • ¼ cup Mother-Sauce Mayo or store-bought mayonnaise
  • 1 5-ounce piece cold-smoked salmon, skin removed and finely diced
  • Zest and juice of ½ lemon
  • 5 tablespoons finely chopped chives
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 baguette cut into ½-inch slices and toasted

Instructions

  • To prepare the raw salmon, slice it into thin strips and place it in your freezer for 10 minutes.
  • Remove and finely dice the strips.
  • Meanwhile, whisk the butter in a large bowl until it’s fluffy.
  • Whisk in the mayonnaise until combined.
  • Stir in the smoked salmon, raw salmon, lemon zest and juice, the chives, salt, and pepper.
  • Scoop the rillettes into a serving dish and serve immediately with the sliced baguette.
  • Alternatively, store it in a covered container in your refrigerator for up to 1 day.
  • Let it come to room temperature before serving.
  • Pairs well with “Three Cigarettes in an Ashtray” by Patsy Cline
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Course; Fish

Potato Pancake with Horseradish Cream

Potato Pancake with Horseradish Cream

Pairs well with “Ease Back” by The Meters I think I speak for most people when I say you really can’t go wrong with a fried potato. This dish is essentially a gigantic potato latke, with a crispy and browned outside and a perfectly soft center (see photo, this page). I would happily eat this on its own, but the horseradish cream is not to be missed: it gives just the right amount of kick to make this potato pancake difficult to forget.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

POTATO PANCAKE

HORSERADISH CREAM

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 400°F.
  • To make the potato pancake, use the large side of a box grater to grate the cut side of the onion into a large bowl.
  • Mix in the garlic, salt, and a generous pinch of pepper.
  • Peel the potatoes.
  • Avoid the temptation to do this in advance—the onion’s juices will soak into the potatoes and prevent them from oxidizing.
  • (Don’t cheat by soaking the potatoes in water; their starch is needed to thicken the pancake later.
  • ) Grate the peeled potatoes on the large side of a box grater.
  • Use your hands to toss the onion mixture with the grated potatoes.
  • To remove their water, form a ball with the potato and onion mixture about the size of a tennis ball.
  • Working in batches, squeeze out as much water as possible over the sink to discard.
  • Transfer the potato and onion mixture to a new, dry bowl.
  • Stir in a couple pinches of salt and pepper and use a fork to separate the pieces.
  • Heat the clarified butter in a large ovenproof pan on high heat until it’s just starting to smoke.
  • Add the potatoes and evenly spread them over the entire bottom of the pan to form a large pancake about ¾ inch thick.
  • Use a spatula to scrape down and clean up the sides.
  • Let the pancake sit without moving until its edges start to brown.
  • Once you see the bottom perimeter turn brown, put the pan in your oven for 20 minutes.
  • Remove the pan from your oven, and trace a spatula along the edges to loosen up the pancake.
  • Set a plate on top of the pan, then turn the pan over so the pancake flips onto the plate with the bottom side facing up.
  • Slide the pancake back into the pan with the bottom side still facing up.
  • Top it with a healthy pinch of salt and return the pan to your oven.
  • Bake for another 15 minutes.
  • Remove the pan from your oven and transfer the pancake to a rack to cool to room temperature (don’t let it cool in the pan or it will get soggy).
  • Meanwhile, to make the horseradish cream, stir together the cream cheese, lime juice, vinegar, horseradish, and a pinch each of salt and pepper in a large bowl.
  • Use a wooden spoon or spatula to stir vigorously until the ingredients are combined and the cream cheese is light and fluffy.
  • Add the heavy cream and use a whisk to whip until the cream thickens and develops soft peaks.
  • In other words, when you lift the whisk out of the bowl, the mixture holds its shape for a second or two before melting back into itself.
  • When the potato pancake has cooled to room temperature, slice it like a pizza.
  • Add a dollop of the horseradish cream to each slice and serve.
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Course; Pancake’s / Crepes

Baked Miso Eggplant

Baked Miso Eggplant

I like to keep white miso paste stocked in my refrigerator because it’s an easy trick: a store-bought seasoning packed with a ton of coveted umami flavor. I often add it to marinades or soup, but in this case, it’s simply smeared onto a steamed eggplant and baked. The top transforms into a beautiful golden crust resembling a crème brûlée, and two simple ingredients yield an addicting snack or small plate to share.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

  • 2 globe eggplants
  • White miso paste at room temperature

Instructions

  • Steam the eggplants.
  • If you don’t have a bamboo steaming basket or double boiler, there are a number of ways you can rig one—as long as you steam the eggplant without allowing it to touch the water.
  • I don’t have a steaming basket, so I put mine on top of a small upside-down heat-safe bowl sitting in a large pot of boiling water.
  • Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and steam the eggplants until they’re cooked through, about 30 minutes.
  • Set the eggplants aside to cool and firm, about 10 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, preheat your oven or toaster oven to 250°F.
  • Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.
  • Slice the eggplants in half lengthwise.
  • Carefully spread a ¼- to ½-inch layer of miso paste on top of the cut side of the eggplant.
  • Set the eggplants skin-side down on the foil-lined baking sheet and bake until the top has browned, about 30 minutes.
  • Remove the eggplants from your oven and let cool to room temperature.
  • Using a sharp knife, trim off and discard the skin on both sides, and serve.
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Course; Dessert