Recipes

Guacamole with Pomegranate

Guacamole with Pomegranate

Everyone has a guacamole recipe, especially in California. This is mine
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Ingredients

  • Serves 4 to 6
  • 3 ripe avocados
  • Juice of 3 or 4 limes
  • 1 small red onion quartered and thinly sliced
  • ½ clove garlic finely chopped
  • 2 serrano chiles seeded and finely minced
  • 1 jalapeño seeded and finely minced
  • ½ teaspoon smoked pimento powder or other smoked chile powder
  • 1 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves finely chopped
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon pomegranate syrup
  • 1 teaspoon black sesame seeds toasted
  • Seeds of 1 small pomegranate

Instructions

  • Halve the avocados, remove their pits (save one for storage!
  • ), and scoop the flesh into a large bowl.
  • Add the juice from 3 limes along with the onion, garlic, serrano chiles, jalapeño, pimento powder, cilantro, and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper.
  • Mash with a fork until the ingredients form a rough paste but still retain some texture.
  • Guacamole with chunks and different textures is much more interesting, so make sure not to over-mash the avocados.
  • Taste and adjust the salt and lime levels, if necessary.
  • Place in your refrigerator for 30 minutes to allow the onion to soften.
  • Scoop the guacamole into your serving bowl.
  • Drizzle with the pomegranate syrup, and sprinkle with the sesame and pomegranate seeds to finish.
  • Serve immediately, or store covered for up to 1 day in your refrigerator with the avocado pit half submerged in the dip to prevent it from oxidizing.
  • Pairs well with “Alegría” by Elia y Elizabeth
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Course; Sauce

Salmon Rillettes

Salmon Rillettes

I learned this recipe many years ago and I revisit it often because I still adore it. The combination of smoked salmon and crudo makes it sing. It’s also incredibly easy to prepare ahead of time and store in your refrigerator, making it a perfect low-stress small plate for your table.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

  • 5 ounces sushi-grade salmon
  • ¼ cup butter softened
  • ¼ cup Mother-Sauce Mayo or store-bought mayonnaise
  • 1 5-ounce piece cold-smoked salmon, skin removed and finely diced
  • Zest and juice of ½ lemon
  • 5 tablespoons finely chopped chives
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 baguette cut into ½-inch slices and toasted

Instructions

  • To prepare the raw salmon, slice it into thin strips and place it in your freezer for 10 minutes.
  • Remove and finely dice the strips.
  • Meanwhile, whisk the butter in a large bowl until it’s fluffy.
  • Whisk in the mayonnaise until combined.
  • Stir in the smoked salmon, raw salmon, lemon zest and juice, the chives, salt, and pepper.
  • Scoop the rillettes into a serving dish and serve immediately with the sliced baguette.
  • Alternatively, store it in a covered container in your refrigerator for up to 1 day.
  • Let it come to room temperature before serving.
  • Pairs well with “Three Cigarettes in an Ashtray” by Patsy Cline
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Course; Fish

Potato Pancake with Horseradish Cream

Potato Pancake with Horseradish Cream

Pairs well with “Ease Back” by The Meters I think I speak for most people when I say you really can’t go wrong with a fried potato. This dish is essentially a gigantic potato latke, with a crispy and browned outside and a perfectly soft center (see photo, this page). I would happily eat this on its own, but the horseradish cream is not to be missed: it gives just the right amount of kick to make this potato pancake difficult to forget.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

POTATO PANCAKE

HORSERADISH CREAM

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 400°F.
  • To make the potato pancake, use the large side of a box grater to grate the cut side of the onion into a large bowl.
  • Mix in the garlic, salt, and a generous pinch of pepper.
  • Peel the potatoes.
  • Avoid the temptation to do this in advance—the onion’s juices will soak into the potatoes and prevent them from oxidizing.
  • (Don’t cheat by soaking the potatoes in water; their starch is needed to thicken the pancake later.
  • ) Grate the peeled potatoes on the large side of a box grater.
  • Use your hands to toss the onion mixture with the grated potatoes.
  • To remove their water, form a ball with the potato and onion mixture about the size of a tennis ball.
  • Working in batches, squeeze out as much water as possible over the sink to discard.
  • Transfer the potato and onion mixture to a new, dry bowl.
  • Stir in a couple pinches of salt and pepper and use a fork to separate the pieces.
  • Heat the clarified butter in a large ovenproof pan on high heat until it’s just starting to smoke.
  • Add the potatoes and evenly spread them over the entire bottom of the pan to form a large pancake about ¾ inch thick.
  • Use a spatula to scrape down and clean up the sides.
  • Let the pancake sit without moving until its edges start to brown.
  • Once you see the bottom perimeter turn brown, put the pan in your oven for 20 minutes.
  • Remove the pan from your oven, and trace a spatula along the edges to loosen up the pancake.
  • Set a plate on top of the pan, then turn the pan over so the pancake flips onto the plate with the bottom side facing up.
  • Slide the pancake back into the pan with the bottom side still facing up.
  • Top it with a healthy pinch of salt and return the pan to your oven.
  • Bake for another 15 minutes.
  • Remove the pan from your oven and transfer the pancake to a rack to cool to room temperature (don’t let it cool in the pan or it will get soggy).
  • Meanwhile, to make the horseradish cream, stir together the cream cheese, lime juice, vinegar, horseradish, and a pinch each of salt and pepper in a large bowl.
  • Use a wooden spoon or spatula to stir vigorously until the ingredients are combined and the cream cheese is light and fluffy.
  • Add the heavy cream and use a whisk to whip until the cream thickens and develops soft peaks.
  • In other words, when you lift the whisk out of the bowl, the mixture holds its shape for a second or two before melting back into itself.
  • When the potato pancake has cooled to room temperature, slice it like a pizza.
  • Add a dollop of the horseradish cream to each slice and serve.
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Course; Pancake’s / Crepes

Baked Miso Eggplant

Baked Miso Eggplant

I like to keep white miso paste stocked in my refrigerator because it’s an easy trick: a store-bought seasoning packed with a ton of coveted umami flavor. I often add it to marinades or soup, but in this case, it’s simply smeared onto a steamed eggplant and baked. The top transforms into a beautiful golden crust resembling a crème brûlée, and two simple ingredients yield an addicting snack or small plate to share.
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Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

  • 2 globe eggplants
  • White miso paste at room temperature

Instructions

  • Steam the eggplants.
  • If you don’t have a bamboo steaming basket or double boiler, there are a number of ways you can rig one—as long as you steam the eggplant without allowing it to touch the water.
  • I don’t have a steaming basket, so I put mine on top of a small upside-down heat-safe bowl sitting in a large pot of boiling water.
  • Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and steam the eggplants until they’re cooked through, about 30 minutes.
  • Set the eggplants aside to cool and firm, about 10 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, preheat your oven or toaster oven to 250°F.
  • Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.
  • Slice the eggplants in half lengthwise.
  • Carefully spread a ¼- to ½-inch layer of miso paste on top of the cut side of the eggplant.
  • Set the eggplants skin-side down on the foil-lined baking sheet and bake until the top has browned, about 30 minutes.
  • Remove the eggplants from your oven and let cool to room temperature.
  • Using a sharp knife, trim off and discard the skin on both sides, and serve.
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Course; Dessert

Red Pepper & Basil Relish

Red Pepper & Basil Relish

In this dish, I roast the red peppers in the oven for a light, smoky flavor that pairs well with the creaminess of an emulsified sauce. This relish can be made up to a day in advance, and would be lovely as a mezze with crostini, as an accompaniment to grilled fish, or alongside pork.
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Ingredients

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 400°F.
  • On a baking sheet, toss the bell peppers with 2 tablespoons olive oil until well coated.
  • Roast in your oven, turning every 5 to 10 minutes, until each side has lightly blackened, about 30 minutes total.
  • Remove the peppers from your oven and set them aside in a large bowl covered with plastic wrap.
  • Alternatively, you can wrap them in foil or seal them in a large covered container to trap the steam and cook the inside of the peppers.
  • Let them sit in the sealed container until they’ve cooled to room temperature.
  • Once cool, tear off and discard the tops, seeds, and skin, reserving any roasting liquid that’s left in the bowl.
  • Tear the peppers into 1-inch-wide strips and place them in the bowl along with the roasting liquid.
  • Set aside.
  • In a large pot on low heat, stir ¾ cup olive oil with the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic just begins to brown, 5 to 7 minutes.
  • Be careful to keep the heat low, stir often, and keep an eye on things—the high sugar content of garlic means it burns easily.
  • Once the garlic has lightly browned, remove the pot from the heat and stir in the red peppers, 1 tablespoon of the roasting liquid, and a pinch of salt.
  • Return the pot to the stove on low heat.
  • Cook, gently stirring often, until the oil turns the color of Dijon mustard and thickens to form a smooth, silky sauce, about 20 minutes.
  • If after 20 minutes the oil shows no signs of thickening, try turning the heat up slightly and continue stirring until the oil emulsifies.
  • Stir in the vinegar, basil, and a healthy pinch of salt.
  • Taste and add more salt if desired.
  • Remove the pan from the heat and let the relish come to room temperature.
  • Give everything a good stir before serving.
  • Serve immediately, or store the relish in an airtight container in your refrigerator for up to 2 days.
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Course; Side Dish

Roasted Red Pepper & Onion Salad with Mozzarella & Basil

Roasted Red Pepper & Onion Salad with Mozzarella & Basil

This salad is a standard on my table because it’s objectively tasty, of course, but also because most of the preparation is simply allowing the ingredients to rest. The sweetness of the onions paired with the smokiness of the bell peppers is an easy sell, but what really shines has nothing to do with my cooking. I’m talking about one of my favorite things: plain mozzarella. Or, as I like to call it, “solid milk.”
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Ingredients

Serves 6

Instructions

  • It helps to know: This recipe requires a gas stove.
  • See the Red Pepper & Basil Relish on this page for an alternative roasting method.
  • Preheat your oven to 400°F.
  • Coat the onions with olive oil, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and wrap them tightly in aluminum foil.
  • Roast on a baking sheet for 45 minutes.
  • Set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Meanwhile, with your gas burner on high, set one of the bell peppers directly on the grate.
  • Allow the outer skin to char thoroughly on each side, using tongs to rotate until the entire pepper is black, 10 to 15 minutes.
  • Roast one pepper at a time, or use all four burners to keep things extra exciting.
  • You’ll want your fan on and the windows open either way.
  • Set the blackened peppers in a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap, then set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Spread the mozzarella on a large serving platter with space between each slice.
  • Add a squeeze of lemon juice, a drizzle of olive oil, and a pinch each of salt and pepper.
  • Set aside.
  • When the onions have cooled, remove them from the foil, reserving the pool of roasting liquid that’s formed at the bottom.
  • Peel and cut them into quarters.
  • Place them in a large bowl along with their roasting liquid, allowing the wedges to fall apart into individual slices.
  • When the peppers have cooled, use your hands to peel off their skin.
  • Remove the stem, rip them in half, and discard their seeds.
  • Rinse with cold water and pat dry.
  • Cut the peeled peppers into 1-inch-wide strips and mix them in with the onions, ½ cup olive oil, the vinegar, garlic, basil, and a pinch of salt.
  • Arrange the bell pepper and onion mixture around the mozzarella.
  • Serve immediately.
  • Pairs well with “Town without Pity” by Gene Pitney
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Course; Salad / Vegetables

Raw Fava, Chickpea & Tahini Hummus

Raw Fava, Chickpea & Tahini Hummus

Yes, you can easily buy hummus at the grocery store, but this fava and tahini spread (see photo,) puts store-bought hummus to shame. The fresh, raw favas taste like springtime, and combined with the creamy, nutty tahini, you’ll find yourself eating it directly from a spoon. Serve alongside raw vegetables and pita chips at a dinner party, on crusty toast for breakfast, or as a spread for sandwiches throughout the week. Use the cooked chickpeas from Chickpea Stock or canned chickpeas in a pinch.
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Ingredients

  • Serves 4 to 6
  • 1 cup raw fava beans
  • 1 cup cooked or canned chickpeas
  • 1 clove garlic
  • ½ cup tahini
  • ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil plus more for drizzling
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • Juice of 1 Meyer lemon
  • 1 teaspoon za’atar for garnish
  • Handful of fresh mint leaves for garnish optional

Instructions

  • It helps to know: This recipe requires a food processor or blender.
  • Blanch the beans by dunking them in boiling water for 30 seconds.
  • Drain and run cold water over them to stop the cooking process.
  • Pop the beans out of their pod and use a small knife to peel and discard the outer skin.
  • Add the peeled favas, chickpeas, and garlic to a food processor and pulse until combined.
  • With the food processor on low speed, add the tahini.
  • Once combined, drizzle in the olive oil and mix to your desired consistency.
  • Transfer the mixture to a bowl, add the salt and lemon juice, and stir to combine.
  • Drizzle a healthy amount of olive oil over the top.
  • Sprinkle with the za’atar and garnish with the mint leaves.
  • Serve immediately, or smooth out the top and cover the hummus with olive oil.
  • Store, covered in your refrigerator, for up to 1 week.
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Course; Side Dish / Tapas

Chickpea Stock

Chickpea Stock

If you find yourself wondering why soups and sauces at restaurants taste so much better than the ones you make at home, it’s probably because restaurants use house-made stock. Stock is the foundation of a dish, and particularly good stock can be the jumping-off point that takes a home-cooked meal to the next level. This is a wonderful, versatile stock that happens to be vegetarian. Perfect for Date-Night Risotto with Crab or Chickpea Minestrone, Genovese Style (this page), this stock, in particular, can also be widely used in place of water for just about any recipe to add complexity of flavor. This recipe also leaves you with 4 cups of cooked chickpeas. I recommend using them for the Raw Fava, Chickpea & Tahini Hummus
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Ingredients

Makes about 8 cups stock and 4 cups chickpeas

Instructions

  • It helps to know: This stock sits overnight and requires cheesecloth.
  • In a large pot, immerse the chickpeas in water and soak for 2 hours.
  • Alternatively, you can soak overnight, but decrease the cook time to around 1 hour in total so as not to overcook the chickpeas.
  • Drain the chickpeas and discard the water.
  • Wrap the bay leaf, star anise, thyme, garlic, and peppercorns in cheesecloth and tie shut with string to make a sachet.
  • In a large pot on high heat, bring the chickpeas and 10 cups water to a simmer.
  • The pot will form a scum resembling soap suds.
  • Skim off the scum and turn the heat to low.
  • Add the onion, carrots, herb sachet, and sugar and bring the stock back to a simmer.
  • After 45 minutes, stir in a couple pinches of salt.
  • Avoid the temptation to add salt at the beginning because this toughens the skin of the chickpeas.
  • Continue to simmer, uncovered, until the chickpeas have cooked through, about 45 minutes more.
  • The chickpeas are finished when they no longer taste dry but still retain some of their texture.
  • Remove the pot from the heat, cover, and let the chickpeas cool completely in their broth, ideally overnight.
  • This allows the final extraction of flavor, and the result will merit the extra time.
  • Remove the herb sachet, carrots, and onions and discard.
  • Strain the chickpeas over a large bowl to reserve the stock.
  • Both the stock and the chickpeas can be used immediately or stored separately in airtight containers in the freezer for up to 3 months.
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Course; Stock

Parmesan Stock

Parmesan Stock

I use this stock in place of water for adding a umami-rich Parmesan flavor to so many dishes, especially white beans, risotto, tomato soup, and rice. It can be made with fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano, but that would be a waste of expensive cheese. Start saving the end pieces that get grated to death and then thrown away. Tightly wrap them in plastic and save in the freezer until you have 8 ounces of rinds (or make friends with your local cheesemonger).
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Ingredients

Makes about 8 cups

  • 8 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano rinds large pieces broken up

Instructions

  • In a medium pot on high heat, bring the rinds (frozen is okay) and 10 cups water to a boil.
  • Once boiling, turn the heat to low and cover the pot with the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape.
  • Let simmer for 1½ hours.
  • Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool to room temperature.
  • Strain over a large bowl, discarding the rinds.
  • Use immediately or store the stock in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3 months.
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Course; Cheese / Stock

Chicken Stock from David Kinch

Chicken Stock from David Kinch

This basic chicken stock isn’t intended to be groundbreaking, but rather a “Why not make it?” when you roast a chicken. Homemade stock is always better than store-bought not only for its flavor, but also because you can add salt later as you please. Plus, making chicken stock is incredibly easy (you can make it while you eat the chicken!). Use this stock in almost any recipe in place of water, including Chickpea Minestrone, Genovese Style , Onion & Brioche Soup with a Poached Egg & Manchego (this page), or Jambalaya, New Orleans Style , or even to add flavor to cooked rice. Alternatively, you can store it in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3 months. Like I said, why not?
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Ingredients

  • Makes about 8 cups
  • Leftover bones and meat from 1 Roast Chicken this page
  • 1 white or yellow onion quartered
  • 1 rib celery chopped
  • 1 carrot peeled (or thoroughly washed) and chopped
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 5 sprigs flat-leaf parsley

Instructions

  • In a large pot on high heat, combine the chicken leftovers, onion, celery, carrot, bay leaf, and parsley and add cold water to cover.
  • When a foamy scum forms on top of the water, skim it off and discard.
  • Turn the heat to low to maintain a gentle simmer and cover the pot with the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape.
  • Let simmer for 2 hours.
  • Strain over a large bowl and use immediately, or store the stock in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3 months.
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Course; Chicken / Stock