Red Pepper & Basil Relish

Red Pepper & Basil Relish

In this dish, I roast the red peppers in the oven for a light, smoky flavor that pairs well with the creaminess of an emulsified sauce. This relish can be made up to a day in advance, and would be lovely as a mezze with crostini, as an accompaniment to grilled fish, or alongside pork.
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Ingredients

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 400°F.
  • On a baking sheet, toss the bell peppers with 2 tablespoons olive oil until well coated.
  • Roast in your oven, turning every 5 to 10 minutes, until each side has lightly blackened, about 30 minutes total.
  • Remove the peppers from your oven and set them aside in a large bowl covered with plastic wrap.
  • Alternatively, you can wrap them in foil or seal them in a large covered container to trap the steam and cook the inside of the peppers.
  • Let them sit in the sealed container until they’ve cooled to room temperature.
  • Once cool, tear off and discard the tops, seeds, and skin, reserving any roasting liquid that’s left in the bowl.
  • Tear the peppers into 1-inch-wide strips and place them in the bowl along with the roasting liquid.
  • Set aside.
  • In a large pot on low heat, stir ¾ cup olive oil with the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic just begins to brown, 5 to 7 minutes.
  • Be careful to keep the heat low, stir often, and keep an eye on things—the high sugar content of garlic means it burns easily.
  • Once the garlic has lightly browned, remove the pot from the heat and stir in the red peppers, 1 tablespoon of the roasting liquid, and a pinch of salt.
  • Return the pot to the stove on low heat.
  • Cook, gently stirring often, until the oil turns the color of Dijon mustard and thickens to form a smooth, silky sauce, about 20 minutes.
  • If after 20 minutes the oil shows no signs of thickening, try turning the heat up slightly and continue stirring until the oil emulsifies.
  • Stir in the vinegar, basil, and a healthy pinch of salt.
  • Taste and add more salt if desired.
  • Remove the pan from the heat and let the relish come to room temperature.
  • Give everything a good stir before serving.
  • Serve immediately, or store the relish in an airtight container in your refrigerator for up to 2 days.
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Course; Side Dish

Roasted Red Pepper & Onion Salad with Mozzarella & Basil

Roasted Red Pepper & Onion Salad with Mozzarella & Basil

This salad is a standard on my table because it’s objectively tasty, of course, but also because most of the preparation is simply allowing the ingredients to rest. The sweetness of the onions paired with the smokiness of the bell peppers is an easy sell, but what really shines has nothing to do with my cooking. I’m talking about one of my favorite things: plain mozzarella. Or, as I like to call it, “solid milk.”
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Ingredients

Serves 6

Instructions

  • It helps to know: This recipe requires a gas stove.
  • See the Red Pepper & Basil Relish on this page for an alternative roasting method.
  • Preheat your oven to 400°F.
  • Coat the onions with olive oil, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and wrap them tightly in aluminum foil.
  • Roast on a baking sheet for 45 minutes.
  • Set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Meanwhile, with your gas burner on high, set one of the bell peppers directly on the grate.
  • Allow the outer skin to char thoroughly on each side, using tongs to rotate until the entire pepper is black, 10 to 15 minutes.
  • Roast one pepper at a time, or use all four burners to keep things extra exciting.
  • You’ll want your fan on and the windows open either way.
  • Set the blackened peppers in a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap, then set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Spread the mozzarella on a large serving platter with space between each slice.
  • Add a squeeze of lemon juice, a drizzle of olive oil, and a pinch each of salt and pepper.
  • Set aside.
  • When the onions have cooled, remove them from the foil, reserving the pool of roasting liquid that’s formed at the bottom.
  • Peel and cut them into quarters.
  • Place them in a large bowl along with their roasting liquid, allowing the wedges to fall apart into individual slices.
  • When the peppers have cooled, use your hands to peel off their skin.
  • Remove the stem, rip them in half, and discard their seeds.
  • Rinse with cold water and pat dry.
  • Cut the peeled peppers into 1-inch-wide strips and mix them in with the onions, ½ cup olive oil, the vinegar, garlic, basil, and a pinch of salt.
  • Arrange the bell pepper and onion mixture around the mozzarella.
  • Serve immediately.
  • Pairs well with “Town without Pity” by Gene Pitney
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Course; Salad / Vegetables

Raw Fava, Chickpea & Tahini Hummus

Raw Fava, Chickpea & Tahini Hummus

Yes, you can easily buy hummus at the grocery store, but this fava and tahini spread (see photo,) puts store-bought hummus to shame. The fresh, raw favas taste like springtime, and combined with the creamy, nutty tahini, you’ll find yourself eating it directly from a spoon. Serve alongside raw vegetables and pita chips at a dinner party, on crusty toast for breakfast, or as a spread for sandwiches throughout the week. Use the cooked chickpeas from Chickpea Stock or canned chickpeas in a pinch.
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Ingredients

  • Serves 4 to 6
  • 1 cup raw fava beans
  • 1 cup cooked or canned chickpeas
  • 1 clove garlic
  • ½ cup tahini
  • ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil plus more for drizzling
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • Juice of 1 Meyer lemon
  • 1 teaspoon za’atar for garnish
  • Handful of fresh mint leaves for garnish optional

Instructions

  • It helps to know: This recipe requires a food processor or blender.
  • Blanch the beans by dunking them in boiling water for 30 seconds.
  • Drain and run cold water over them to stop the cooking process.
  • Pop the beans out of their pod and use a small knife to peel and discard the outer skin.
  • Add the peeled favas, chickpeas, and garlic to a food processor and pulse until combined.
  • With the food processor on low speed, add the tahini.
  • Once combined, drizzle in the olive oil and mix to your desired consistency.
  • Transfer the mixture to a bowl, add the salt and lemon juice, and stir to combine.
  • Drizzle a healthy amount of olive oil over the top.
  • Sprinkle with the za’atar and garnish with the mint leaves.
  • Serve immediately, or smooth out the top and cover the hummus with olive oil.
  • Store, covered in your refrigerator, for up to 1 week.
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Course; Side Dish / Tapas

Chickpea Stock

Chickpea Stock

If you find yourself wondering why soups and sauces at restaurants taste so much better than the ones you make at home, it’s probably because restaurants use house-made stock. Stock is the foundation of a dish, and particularly good stock can be the jumping-off point that takes a home-cooked meal to the next level. This is a wonderful, versatile stock that happens to be vegetarian. Perfect for Date-Night Risotto with Crab or Chickpea Minestrone, Genovese Style (this page), this stock, in particular, can also be widely used in place of water for just about any recipe to add complexity of flavor. This recipe also leaves you with 4 cups of cooked chickpeas. I recommend using them for the Raw Fava, Chickpea & Tahini Hummus
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Ingredients

Makes about 8 cups stock and 4 cups chickpeas

Instructions

  • It helps to know: This stock sits overnight and requires cheesecloth.
  • In a large pot, immerse the chickpeas in water and soak for 2 hours.
  • Alternatively, you can soak overnight, but decrease the cook time to around 1 hour in total so as not to overcook the chickpeas.
  • Drain the chickpeas and discard the water.
  • Wrap the bay leaf, star anise, thyme, garlic, and peppercorns in cheesecloth and tie shut with string to make a sachet.
  • In a large pot on high heat, bring the chickpeas and 10 cups water to a simmer.
  • The pot will form a scum resembling soap suds.
  • Skim off the scum and turn the heat to low.
  • Add the onion, carrots, herb sachet, and sugar and bring the stock back to a simmer.
  • After 45 minutes, stir in a couple pinches of salt.
  • Avoid the temptation to add salt at the beginning because this toughens the skin of the chickpeas.
  • Continue to simmer, uncovered, until the chickpeas have cooked through, about 45 minutes more.
  • The chickpeas are finished when they no longer taste dry but still retain some of their texture.
  • Remove the pot from the heat, cover, and let the chickpeas cool completely in their broth, ideally overnight.
  • This allows the final extraction of flavor, and the result will merit the extra time.
  • Remove the herb sachet, carrots, and onions and discard.
  • Strain the chickpeas over a large bowl to reserve the stock.
  • Both the stock and the chickpeas can be used immediately or stored separately in airtight containers in the freezer for up to 3 months.
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Course; Stock

Parmesan Stock

Parmesan Stock

I use this stock in place of water for adding a umami-rich Parmesan flavor to so many dishes, especially white beans, risotto, tomato soup, and rice. It can be made with fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano, but that would be a waste of expensive cheese. Start saving the end pieces that get grated to death and then thrown away. Tightly wrap them in plastic and save in the freezer until you have 8 ounces of rinds (or make friends with your local cheesemonger).
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Ingredients

Makes about 8 cups

  • 8 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano rinds large pieces broken up

Instructions

  • In a medium pot on high heat, bring the rinds (frozen is okay) and 10 cups water to a boil.
  • Once boiling, turn the heat to low and cover the pot with the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape.
  • Let simmer for 1½ hours.
  • Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool to room temperature.
  • Strain over a large bowl, discarding the rinds.
  • Use immediately or store the stock in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3 months.
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Course; Cheese / Stock

Chicken Stock from David Kinch

Chicken Stock from David Kinch

This basic chicken stock isn’t intended to be groundbreaking, but rather a “Why not make it?” when you roast a chicken. Homemade stock is always better than store-bought not only for its flavor, but also because you can add salt later as you please. Plus, making chicken stock is incredibly easy (you can make it while you eat the chicken!). Use this stock in almost any recipe in place of water, including Chickpea Minestrone, Genovese Style , Onion & Brioche Soup with a Poached Egg & Manchego (this page), or Jambalaya, New Orleans Style , or even to add flavor to cooked rice. Alternatively, you can store it in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3 months. Like I said, why not?
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Ingredients

  • Makes about 8 cups
  • Leftover bones and meat from 1 Roast Chicken this page
  • 1 white or yellow onion quartered
  • 1 rib celery chopped
  • 1 carrot peeled (or thoroughly washed) and chopped
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 5 sprigs flat-leaf parsley

Instructions

  • In a large pot on high heat, combine the chicken leftovers, onion, celery, carrot, bay leaf, and parsley and add cold water to cover.
  • When a foamy scum forms on top of the water, skim it off and discard.
  • Turn the heat to low to maintain a gentle simmer and cover the pot with the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape.
  • Let simmer for 2 hours.
  • Strain over a large bowl and use immediately, or store the stock in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3 months.
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Course; Chicken / Stock

A Quick Pickle, Japanese Style

A Quick Pickle, Japanese Style

Pickles are an easy way to add acidity to a dish, especially raw fish or salads, or to serve as a side to roasted meat. This very light pickle base is a flavoring pickle; it’s not intended to preserve the fruit or vegetable but rather to add a sweet-and-sour punch. This is my go-to pickle base because it pickles both fruits and vegetables without overpowering their flavor or causing them to lose their natural crunch. The pickle base is made from equal parts (by volume) water, white wine, rice vinegar, and sugar. The amount of liquid you need depends on the amount of produce you’re pickling. Get creative with what you pickle! Make a big batch and store it in your refrigerator for a simple way to elevate your meals throughout the week.
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Ingredients

Yield is variable

PICKLING LIQUID

COLD PICKLE IDEAS

  • Melon cubed, with mint leaves
  • Onions sliced
  • Peaches sliced, with basil leaves
  • Plums quartered

HOT PICKLE IDEAS

Instructions

  • In a small pot on high heat, add equal amounts of water, wine, vinegar, and sugar and stir to combine.
  • (Be sure the liquid will fully cover your chosen mixture of vegetables, fruits, and herbs when it’s poured into the pickling ) Bring the liquid to a simmer, stirring frequently, until the sugar dissolves. container.
  • Add salt to taste.
  • From here, you can go one of two ways.
  • If you’re pickling a soft fruit or vegetable, let your pickling liquid cool to room temperature before pouring it over the top.
  • If you’re pickling a tougher vegetable, pour the liquid directly over the fruits or vegetables while it’s still hot.
  • Put your chosen vegetables, fruits, and a handful of herbs into a jar and pour in the pickling liquid.
  • Cover the jar and put it in your refrigerator to pickle for at least 24 hours or up to 2 weeks.
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Course; Side Dish
Cuisine; Japanese

Garlicky Herbed Croutons

Garlicky Herbed Croutons

These croutons are crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside—ideal for salads or on top of soup. I like to tear the bread by hand to make interesting shapes, and I don’t make them overly crispy: if you want a super crispy, perfectly square crouton you might as well buy them at the store. You’ll likely end up with too many croutons for a salad, but you’ll want to snack on half of them anyway.
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Ingredients

Makes about 3 cups

Instructions

  • Preheat your oven to 400°F.
  • Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil.
  • In a small pot on low heat, mix together the butter and olive oil.
  • When the butter has melted and combined with the oil, add the garlic and herbs and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute.
  • In a large bowl, pour the olive oil mixture over the torn bread.
  • Top with two healthy pinches each of salt and pepper and stir to combine.
  • Set aside to allow the bread to absorb the oil, stirring occasionally until you no longer see a pool at the bottom of the bowl, about 4 minutes.
  • Spread the bread in a single layer on the baking sheet (it’s okay for the bread to touch, just make sure it’s in one single layer).
  • Bake, tossing occasionally, until the croutons are crispy and have turned a dark brown around the edges, about 15 minutes.
  • Set aside to cool to room temperature.
  • Use immediately, or store in an airtight container in your refrigerator for up to 1 day.
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Course; Side Dish

Seven-Ingredient Pesto, Two Ways

Seven-Ingredient Pesto, Two Ways

I have a lot of opinions when it comes to pesto, mostly because it’s one of a select handful of things I consider sacred. Rest assured that I don’t say this lightly: I believe it’s the single greatest sauce in Italian cuisine.
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Ingredients

The Right Way

  • I kept things simple whenever possible for this book because I want you to feel you can not only tackle but also enjoy cooking these recipes. Pesto is one of the few cases where I will adamantly urge you to make it the “low-tech” way. The result is delicate and vibrant, and in the time it takes to boil water for pasta, you’ll have used your hands to create something truly special.
  • ½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • ½ cup finely grated Pecorino Romano
  • 1 clove garlic
  • Flaky sea salt
  • 3 tablespoons pine nuts
  • 2 cups lightly packed basil leaves young and tender preferred
  • ¼ to ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions

  • It helps to know: This recipe requires a cold mortar and pestle (I use a marble mortar and a wooden pestle, but inexpensive options are abundant on the internet).
  • I use unwashed basil leaves to maintain their aroma.
  • If your basil is dirty, clean it carefully using a damp paper towel.
  • Cool your mortar and pestle in your refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
  • (The two worst things you can do to pesto are to overheat it and use too much. )
  • In a small bowl, stir together the cheeses, and set aside.
  • Place a folded towel beneath the cold mortar to allow it to rotate more easily.
  • Using the pestle, mash the garlic with a pinch of salt to form a paste.
  • Add the pine nuts and begin stirring the pestle aggressively around the center to force the ingredients up the sides of the mortar.
  • Turn the bowl as you pound the pestle down along the sides.
  • When the pine nuts and garlic have formed a paste, begin adding the basil in small handfuls, adding a pinch of salt occasionally to act as an abrasive.
  • Continue to stir the ingredients up the sides of the mortar, rotate the bowl, and hit the pestle along its sides.
  • With a little patience, gravity will do the work for you.
  • Continue with this process until you’ve added all of the basil and no large leaves remain.
  • The leaves will be a variety of sizes—imperfection is part of the beauty of a handmade pesto.
  • Add the cheese mixture in small spoonfuls, continuing to stir, rotate, and pound the ingredients together.
  • Slowly add the olive oil, still stirring and pounding until the pesto transforms from a paste to a thick, creamy sauce with a little flow.
  • The amount of olive oil you use will vary depending on your preference, but ¼ to ½ cup usually does the trick.
  • Be careful not to add too much oil too quickly as it will separate.
  • Use immediately, or store in your refrigerator covered in ½ inch olive oil for up to 6 months.
  • The olive oil preserves the pesto by preventing any contact with air.
  • When you’re ready to serve, simply remove the excess oil and give the pesto a good stir.

Notes & Wine Advice

The Other Way

Before opening my new restaurant, Mentone, I traveled to Italy to learn the classic techniques of Genovese cuisine. On one of my trips, Roberto Panizza (the godfather of pesto) recounted the heartbreak of watching his grandmother prepare pesto using a blender. Use the following recipe if you must, but know that you’ll break Mr. Panizza’s (and my) heart.
1 clove garlic
3 tablespoons pine nuts
Flaky sea salt
2 cups lightly packed basil leaves and stems
½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
½ cup finely grated Pecorino Romano
¼ to ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
It helps to know: This recipe requires a food processor or blender.
Pulse the garlic, pine nuts, and a pinch of salt in a food processor until a paste forms. Add the basil and pulse until smooth.
Add the cheeses, turn the machine to low, and drizzle in the olive oil until the pesto transforms from a paste to a sauce.
Use immediately, or store in your refrigerator covered with ½ inch olive oil for up to 6 months.
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Course; Tapas

Mignonette

Mignonette

This is a straightforward mignonette—with one small upgrade: I let the aromatics marinate and then strain the liquid to avoid chewing on peppercorns. Serve alongside plenty of fresh oysters
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Ingredients

Makes about ½ cup

Instructions

  • Coarsely crush the peppercorns using a mortar and pestle.
  • If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, set the peppercorns on a sturdy cutting board, and, using the bottom edge of a pot, firmly press down and forward on the peppercorns until each one is crushed.
  • Don’t be afraid to be aggressive.
  • Both methods will yield peppercorns of all different sizes, and that’s what you want.
  • Combine the peppercorns, half the shallots, and the vinegar in a bowl, stir, and let sit for 30 minutes.
  • Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl, reserving the vinegar and discarding the peppercorns and shallots.
  • Add the remaining shallots, stir, and serve.
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