Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat.

Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until softened.

In a medium saucepan, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons of olive oil and butter over medium heat.

Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes until the sauce is thickened and smooth.

Gradually stir in the milk, cider, and broth.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is blended.

Season with salt and pepper.

Add the cooked mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms soften and release their juices, incorporating them into the sauce.

Spread the mixture out on a dinner plate and let it cool, then refrigerate until firm enough to handle.

Shape the mushroom mixture into 1-inch balls.

Place the eggs and bread crumbs in separate shallow bowls.

Heat at least 1 inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat (or use a deep fryer set at 365°F) until it turns a cube of bread light brown in 60 seconds.

Dip each croquette in the beaten egg, dredge in the bread crumbs, and place in the hot oil.

Cook in batches if needed to avoid overcrowding, turning the croquettes several times until golden.

Transfer the croquettes with a slotted spoon to paper towels and let them drain.

Serve hot.

Place the potatoes in a small saucepan and add cold water to cover, along with a pinch of salt.

Cover and bring to a simmer over low heat.

Cook for about 15 minutes or until tender when pierced with a knife.

Drain well and let cool slightly.

Peel.

Pass through a ricer into a medium bowl.

Stir in the 2 teaspoons of olive oil, lemon zest, cheese, nutmeg, flour, salt, and black pepper.

Stir in the milk and beaten egg.

Shape the potato mixture into 1-inch balls.

Place the bread crumbs in a shallow bowl.

Heat at least 1 inch of oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat (or use a deep fryer set at 365°F) until it turns a cube of bread light brown in 60 seconds.

Dredge each puff in the bread crumbs and place in the hot oil.

Cook, turning once with tongs, until golden.

Transfer the puffs with a slotted spoon to paper towels and let them drain.

Serve hot.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Lightly oil your hands and rub over the surface of each eggplant.

Puncture the skin in a few places with a knife.

Place in a roasting pan and bake, turning once, 35 to 40 minutes or until tender.

Let cool, peel, and chop finely.

Let sit to release any liquid.

In a small bowl, combine the goat cheese and anchovies.

Using the eggplant, shape 2 teaspoons at a time into a ball and fill with about ¼ teaspoon of the cheese-anchovy mixture.

Heat at least 1 inch of oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat (or use a deep fryer set at 365°F) until it turns a cube of bread light brown in 60 seconds.

Dredge each fritter in the flour and place in the oil.

Cook, turning several times, until golden.

Place the Swiss chard in a large saucepan with water to cover, add salt, and bring to a boil over high heat.

Reduce the heat to medium and cook until tender, about 15 minutes.

Drain and chop finely.

Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat.

Add the chopped onion and cook until wilted, about 5 minutes.

Add the Swiss chard, salt, black pepper, and oregano.

Cook until the chard wilts and absorbs the seasonings.

In another saucepan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and butter over medium heat until the butter melts.

Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thickened and smooth, about 3 minutes.

Add the Swiss chard mixture and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes.

Spread the mixture out on a dinner plate and let it cool.

Refrigerate until firm enough to handle (about 1 hour).

Shape the Swiss chard mixture into 1-inch balls.

Place the eggs and bread crumbs in separate shallow bowls.

Heat at least 1 inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat (or use a deep fryer set at 365°F) until it turns a cube of bread light brown in 60 seconds.

Dip each croquette in the beaten egg, dredge in the bread crumbs, and place in the hot oil.

Cook, turning several times, until golden.

Transfer the croquettes with a slotted spoon to paper towels and let them drain.

Serve hot.

Heat the butter and oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat until the butter melts.

Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thickened and smooth, about 3 minutes.

Add the coarsely grated zucchini and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes.

Spread the mixture out on a dinner plate and let it cool.

Refrigerate until firm enough to handle (about 1 hour).

Shape the zucchini mixture into 1-inch balls.

Place the eggs and bread crumbs in separate shallow bowls.

Heat at least 1 inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat (or use a deep fryer set at 365°F) until it turns a cube of bread light brown in 60 seconds.

Dip each croquette in the beaten egg, dredge in the bread crumbs, and place in the hot oil.

Cook, turning several times, until golden.

Transfer the croquettes with a slotted spoon to paper towels and let them drain.

Serve hot.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat.

Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes.

Gradually stir in the milk, salt, black pepper, and nutmeg.

Cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and smooth.

Spread the mixture out on a dinner plate and let it cool.

Refrigerate until firm enough to handle (about 1 hour).

Shape the cheese mixture into 1¼-inch balls.

Place the eggs and flour in separate shallow bowls.

Heat at least 1 inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat (or use a deep fryer set at 365°F) until it turns a cube of bread light brown in 60 seconds.

Dip each croquette in the beaten egg, dredge in the bread crumbs, and place in the hot oil.

Cook, turning several times, until golden.

Transfer the croquettes with a slotted spoon to paper towels and let them drain.

Serve hot.

In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks until lightly colored.

Stir in the milk, then gradually add the flour and whisk until smooth.

In another small bowl, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form.

Fold half of the yolk mixture into the whites, add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, cheeses, ham, and onion, and fold in the remaining yolk mixture.

Heat at least ½ inch of oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat (or use a deep fryer set at 365°F) until it turns a cube of bread light brown in 60 seconds.

Drop the dough by rounded teaspoonfuls into the hot oil.

Cook, turning once, until just golden — do not overcook.

Transfer the cheese balls with a slotted spoon to paper towels and let drain.

Serve hot.

Fit several layers of ham on each of 8 bread slices, top with layers of cheese, and cover with the remaining bread.

Pour the milk into a flat-bottom dish.

Briefly dip each sandwich into it, moistening both sides.

Place on a dry platter and let sit for 20 minutes.

Place the eggs in a shallow bowl.

Heat at least ½ inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat (or use a deep fryer set at 365°F) until it turns a cube of bread light brown in 60 seconds.

Dip both sides of each sandwich in the beaten eggs and place in the hot oil.

Cook until golden on both sides, turning once.

Transfer the sandwiches with a slotted spatula to paper towels and let drain.

Serve hot.

Season the quail with salt.

Heat olive oil in a shallow earthenware casserole dish or Dutch oven over medium heat.

Add the quail and cook, turning once, until browned on both sides.

Transfer to a platter.

Add the pearl onions, carrots, and garlic to the casserole dish.

Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the onions are tender.

(This step can be prepared ahead.

)

Return the quail and any juices to the casserole dish.

Add piquillo peppers, white wine, broth, pine nuts, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, salt, and pepper.

Cover and cook for 15 to 20 minutes more or until the quail are just tender.

Transfer the quail to a warm serving platter (or individual casserole dishes).

Cook the sauce for an additional 1 to 2 minutes.

Remove the bay leaf.

Pour the sauce over the quail and serve hot.